Update: now in KL

We are now in the lounge in KL. It is 3.30 pm on Thursday here, 9.30am in The Netherlands, so an overnight flight. Our next flight leaves at 10.20pm, so we get another - shorter- night flight. It is about 30 degrees outside, but lovely and cool inside. John has just gone for a shower, Liz can't because of the difficulty getting her compression stockings on and off! Well, difficult for John to do, they are extremely tight fitting.
Flight went well, small pockets of turbulence occasionally. Will go for a wander around the airport later with Liz in the wheelchair.

Checked in at last

So we arrived at the airport and went to the KLM check-in desk. We were in the system but she could not find our ticket. It took over half an hour to get our boarding pass! Then we went to the KLM lounge which took ages to get to with John pushing Liz in a wheelchair. Arrived there to be told we must go to the Malaysian Airways lounge. We walked all the way there to be told we must go to the KLM lounge. Ok, we were getting rather fed up at this point. Went back to KLM lounge and they discussed it and let us in. Not very acceptable from our point of view, but at least we are ticketed through to Wellington now!

Catching up with Tante Johanna

We visited Tante Johanna in Bergin today.

Recuperating in The Netherlands

We are now booked to return home, leaving next Wednesday 22nd and arriving on Friday 24th at 2.45pm from Melbourne. So we have one week left to enjoy the European summer -it is currently 26 degrees, with weekend temps due to hit 30.
It was lovely to have Amy here for a few days, she and John collected our bikes and gear on Sunday from the hotel in Amsterdam, and took the rental car back into Amsterdam on Monday.
Liz went to Beverwjk Hospital and had her stitches out, and a full cast from the hand to over the elbow put on. So hopefully that will be all ok until back in Wellington.
Luus and Theo have gone on holiday today, so we are house and cat-sitting until we leave.

Have both been to the nearby hairdresser this morning, so are looking a bit neater.
Will go out for a drive later in our loan car - thanks Berry!

Liz and cousin Luus in Heemskerk

Recuperation underway!

Amy in Heemskerk

Well, Liz Amy and John have now arrived in Holland for the required 2 weeks recuperation time before Liz is allowed to fly home. John hired a car in Oelde and we all drove over Saturday. 320km. 

First time for John driving a left hand drive car in Europe and a manual to boot!

Amy flew to Dusseldorf and took a train to Oelde,but since Liz was discharged Saturday she has joined us in Holland and flys home Tuesday.

We recovered the bikes and gear from the hotel in Amsterdam this morning - many thanks to our cycling colleagues who packed up my bike.

Amy and I have reassembled the bikes so I can go out riding. She has indicated she and Jerome would like bikes in Lonfdon so she may take them....

A relation of Liz's has offered to lend us a car for a couple of weeks, so we should be able to get around. May buy a GPS so navigation is easier.

Will send another post later.

--
John & Liz Pfahlert
P O Box 9740
Marion Square
Wellington 6141

Update on Liz

Good news, Liz has been given the OK by her doctor to leave hospital, 2 weeks after we arrived.

I'll hire a car and we leave Saturday morning for The Netherlands. No immediate return home as her stitches and cast on her arm can't be removed till late next week, and then probably a few days more to get her mobile enough to fly. We will be staying for the first few days with her cousin Luus in Heemskirk in Holland. 

Amy is flying over Friday (tomorrow) evening and will join us. She flys into Dusseldorf and takes a train here to Oelde, and will fly back to London Tuesday from Amsterdam.

All our gear is at a hotel in Amsterdam, and this will all need to be picked up and cleaned before we can travel. 

So a big thanks due to the medical staff here who have been really excellent. 

Liz has some additional holiday snaps courtesy of the X-ray department here showing her elbow with 10 titanium screws holing a plate in place!

So, our holiday continues, albeit at a different pace.

Regards to one and all.

John and Liz

--
John & Liz Pfahlert
P O Box 9740
Marion Square
Wellington 6141

Update on Liz

Not the greatest of news to report to family and friends I'm afraid.

Liz had a CT scan today and the doctors have decided she has cracked her pelvis, the reason for Liz finding it difficult to walk.

The young lady doctor says she would like to keep Liz here  for a further 1 to 2 weeks so they can monitor and treat her. Any plans I had for rejoining the tour to Barcelona have been dashed, since I cannot leave her here where few speak English.

I have to say that since it is my birthday I feel a little depressed at this development. 

Perhaps if the insurance company monitor my blog site they will offer to shout a good bottle of champagne?

I think perhaps Rudyard Kipling had something to say about these type of developments in If .......but you will need to be an affiacondo of poetry to understand the significance...

At this stage therefore all our gear wends its way to Barcelona, to be returned by truck late August to Amsterdam.

I suspect we will get to Holland in about 2 weeks and spend time with the relatives before our return to NZ.

Not perhaps exactly how I saw myself spending my  4 weeks of special leave which my employer granted me following the company restructuring, but this is life and I always say that adversity builds character, though right now I wish it were otherwise.

 

I will report again where there are further developments.

John

--
John & Liz Pfahlert
P O Box 9740
Marion Square
Wellington 6141

Update on Liz's Operation

Good news on the operation front. Liz has just emerged from surgery in good health. The doctors have pronounced the operation on her elbow a success. She is now held together with a titanium plate and screw......All she now requires is a gyroscope to keep her bike upright in future.

It's now 6 pm local time and I'm taking a break from the hospital. Hopefully we will be able to now leave Oelde in 3 or 4 days. Very hot here today at 32 degrees. 

Thank you to all the family and friends who have sent emails, too many to respond to directly, so if you think someone needs updating please let them them know.

--
John & Liz Pfahlert
P O Box 9740
Marion Square
Wellington 6141

Update on Liz's Operation

Good news on the operation front. Liz has just emerged from surgery in good health. The doctors have pronounced the operation on her elbow a success. She is now held together with a titanium plate and screw......All she now requires is a gyroscope to keep her bike upright in future.

It's now 6 pm local time and I'm taking a break from the hospital. Hopefully we will be able to now leave Oelde in 3 or 4 days. Very hot here today at 32 degrees.

Thank you to all the family and friends who have sent emails, too many to respond to directly, so if you think someone needs updating please let them them know.

--
John & Liz Pfahlert
P O Box 9740
Marion Square
Wellington 6141

An example of the nutritious food being served so far on the trip

From Marienhospital Oelde

Well by now all family and friends are aware of the setback to the cycling trip due to Liz's fall from her bike last Saturday. She is in good spirits, but a little annoyed with herself. Her walking is still slow but that is due to severely strained leg muscles. It is now Tuesday afternoon and she is scheduled to have an operation on her elbow Wednesday late morning or early afternoon. 

John has been out and about and determined that hiring a rental car and driving Liz to Amsterdam is the best course of action once Liz is well enough to travel.

At this stage the plan is to try and get moving either Saturday or Sunday, and the surgeon doing the operation is ok with that provided Liz doesn't get any infections and feels well enough to move.

John is trying to get confirmation from the insurance company that they will cover the costs of the rental car for a one way hire. The hire company is called Sixt and say that all they require to hire a car is a valid NZ licence, passport and credit card. The insurance company have so far been wonderful, advising they will cover all medical costs and the costs of Johns hotel.

John plans to rejoin the tour in Brugge in Belgium if the above plan all comes to pass. Liz will meanwhile convalesce with her cousin Luus until Amy can come from London to take charge. 

Liz thinks there is a conspiracy to prevent John from ever traveling within The Netherlands and meeting her relations! He has never been to Holland whereas Liz has been many times and met all her relations on many occasions. 

Many thanks to all of our friends and family who have been in touch. If you have not been contacted directly it's because John has been a bit distracted, and if truth been told, somewhat challenged by using Liz's iPad and iPhone, both of which he rarely uses!

One of our close friends suggests that in future we travel by bus, but my challenge to him is to join us on our next trip and discover the joys of cycling, German hospitals notwithstanding!

Will keep you all posted as to developments.

John and Liz

--
John & Liz Pfahlert
P O Box 9740
Marion Square
Wellington 6141

Saturday 28th July

Day started out coldish and a bit wet. We decidd to ride with Garis and the team from Australia.

Had done about 50 of the 115km planned for the day, heading to Munster when Liz fell off her bike crossing a low Kerb. 

Disaster! She is now in a fine country hospital in rural Germany in the town of Oelde, recovering from breaking her arm in 3 places. She also has a very strained set of muscles in her leg which makes walking painful. The accident was on Saturday about 11.30am about 5 minutes from the hospital. The efficient ambulance service took only a few minutes to arrive.

I travelled with Liz to the hospital while our friends took our bikes by train to Munster. I have packed up Liz's bike and cycling gear and left it with mine in our truck, where it now wends its way on with our friends towards Barcelona.

I am ensconced in a small hotel over the road from the hospital and spending time with Liz while she recovers. She needs an operation on Tuesday on her elbow, so it will take a while to recover and get her mobile.

The plan is for me to try and rejoin the tour later, and for Liz to recuperate either with her Dutch relations or Amy in London. However all that is a maybe, since she needs to be able to walk for me to get her by train to Amsterdam, which is 400km and 4 train changes away. Changes of platform and lots of subway steps etc require her to be mobile.

I'm also trying to sort out a not inconsiderable insurance claim. I guess this is where you find out whether the travel policy one has secured actually works........

So the appropriate adjective is I think "bugger" to describe our response to the situation. The planned family reunion in Holland with Liz's Dutch relations, planned for this Thursday is probably going to be cancelled, since it looks like Liz will be in hospital for quite a few days. In fact it looks like I will see little of either her relations, most of whom I have not met, nor the countryside, since our tour will be on to Belgium by the time we Re ready to move.

Oelde is a town of 35000 with a good hospital. At this stage I have no idea when we will return home. 

will keep everyone posted. I hope to get a sim card for the iPad tomorrow so Liz can use it from her hospital bed where there is no free wifi. 

--
John & Liz Pfahlert
P O Box 9740
Marion Square
Wellington 6141

Friday 27th July

There was a group camping beside us, who kept making noise until almost midnight. Not appreciated when we were getting up at 6am 

Today's ride was from Hoxter to Schloss Holte-Stuckenbrock, just over 80ks. Through Marienmunster, Hiddensen and Augustdorf. 

It was about 85kms, and very up and down all day. The road surface varied from many kilometers of beautifully sealed road to forest track. There were some stunning vistas in the morning from the tops of he hills we climbed. 

The start was through cool forest, but as the day progressed it got hotter and the climbs got harder! So it was a tough day, though we did have a two hour lunch along the way at a lovely restaurant. 

 

The humidity increased markedly as the day wore on. We arrived in camp around 4 .15 pm., glad to have arrived. Camp is a lovely spot with a large area all for us not far from the facilities. 

We were eating dinner( delicious pasta and salad) when the thunder started, followed by rain. For the next few hours there was a massive thunderstorm. Everyone had crawled into their tents before 8pm and so there we lay, listening to the thunder rumbling all around, seeing the lightening, and hearing the rain.  Have never heard thunder go on and on, but given the heat of the past few days we can see why. 

The thunder continued till 12.30am, then it just rained until 5am. 

--
John & Liz Pfahlert
P O Box 9740
Marion Square
Wellington 6141

Liz in non cycling mode!

Town square in Oelde where Liz is now enjoying her holiday in hospital!

Prague, 22 & 23rd July

We walked the short distance from our hotel to the railway station in Dresden, to catch the train to Prague. It left at 11.08 am, and arrived at the main station in Prague 2&1/2 hours later. Caught the local train to the hotel, then walked back into the city. It was 4pm when we sat down for lunch at a Czech restaurant on Wencelesas Square. 

After lunch we walked around the central city, amongst the thousands of other tourists, then walked back to the hotel. 

The buildings are rather beautiful, and there are tourist shops everywhere.

It was fine all day, a pleasant change!

Monday was lovely and warm. We caught the train to the city, and went to the Communist Museum. This was, rather ironically, situated beside a McDonalds. The display was rather aged, but a video presentation depicted the fall of communism rather well. From there we walked to the Castle over the Charles Bridge and up the hill. Wandered around the castle for a while, before returning to the central city. Liz had a Thai massage while John waited at a nearby cafe. Then we sauntereed the central city until we met our companions at a nearby restaurant at 6pm for dinner, before going to a concert of highlights of Mozart's Requiem at the St. Nicholas Church.

Our hour walk home along the Vletana River was in beautiful mild, calm conditions, with the lights coming on shining on the Castle as dusk approached. We were walking home with Nelson, and got onto the wrong path through the walled area of the former King's castle, so took an extra 1/2 hour. 

--
John & Liz Pfahlert
P O Box 9740
Marion Square
Wellington 6141

24th & 25th July

The train arrived in Magedeburg about 5pm, And we got a taxi to the camp ground. It was by a lake, so we had a swim while waiting on the truck to arrive. It arrived about 7pm. Dinner was pizza, ordered in - NOT vey good at all, just a base with lots of cheese, we could certainly give them a lesson or two. 

The ride to Goslar on 25th was easily the hottest day of the trip to date.  

As a result, we began an hour earlier than previously. 

The route was almost entirely on roads as opposed to bike routes, but we still had plenty of cobblestone and brick of various difficulties to contend with, particularly through the multiple towns and villages along the way. The scenery continued to be rural with some crops already harvested. Although we have seen several wind farms, today we seemed to see twenty to thirty wind turbines for each village sitting atop the slight hills. No one seems to know how the energy from the turbines might be managed and distributed. However, it is good to see such use of green energy.

Goslar is considered one of the best reconstructed medieval towns in Germany and most of us agreed with this assessment though it was a bit dangerous rubbernecking on the rough cobble common throughout the old town area. Most had lunch there as the campground was only a couple k out of town. The campground is a bit lesser quality than what we have come to expect, but certainly much better than a rough camp, with hot water showers, porcelain thrones, etc. Des and Mike cooked up a nice meal and we had a relaxing evening, going to bed early.

Next day, we started at Stassfurt, an 88 km day. It was very hot, reaching 33 degrees. We went through Eglin, Grossalsleben, Krottorf, Schwanebeck, Anderbeck, Baderslben, Osterwieck and Vienenburg to Goslar. Goslar is a UNESCO World Heritage City, having been a major town in the 1500s. It is a beautiful city with stunning old buildings. 

--
John & Liz Pfahlert
P O Box 9740
Marion Square
Wellington 6141

26th July

We were all up early for a 7.10 departure. This was a long day. We cycled through Langelshiem, Seeson (morning tea), Bad Gandersheim, Einbeck (lunch), Dassel, Deensen, Holzminden and Hoxter to our camp at a swimming pool complex beside the Waser River.

First part of the day provided excellent views over the vast farmland, quite a lot of climbing, and some rougher track through the forest. Later the route was mostly on lovely sealed Cycleway. 

It was a long day of 125kms, and the temperature reached 33 degrees at arrival. We each drank 6 bottles of fluid. 

We rode with Stewart all day. Einbeck was a lovely city, and we had lunch in the town square.

Evening was very warm, pleasant spot beside the river. We went for a swim on arrival which cooled us down beautifully. 

--
John & Liz Pfahlert
P O Box 9740
Marion Square
Wellington 6141

Vapor trails over Prague

Shot while walking home to the hotel. The city seems to be a point where trans-continental jets are routed over. A lovely warm day at 24 degrees. Lots of tourists in the city. Back to Strassfort tomorrow to resume our cycling. May not be too much wifi till Munster in 5 days.

Liz on the Charles Bridge Prague

Street buskers in Prague

John on the steps leading to the palace in Prague

The team at Dresden railway awaiting our 1st class carriage to Prague

John in the Old Town in Prague

Ruby and Liz in Prague

20th July. Torgau to Moritzburg

We are now about 15 ks out of Dsden. The route today broadly followed the Elbe Riv, for a distance of about 95kms. We had favorable winds at out back! Also, it was fine all day until just after we set up our tent, when again it poured. 

We went through the town of Belgin and along the river across from Reisa. Lots of cobblestones, which we don't enjoy as they are hard going. Stopped for lunch at a cafe on the Elbe. 

We left the Elbe after about 70ks and did the last 24ks through forested country, mainly on gravel roads, on the Moritzburg Cycleway. The term Cycleway is a bit of a misnomer, as it is really just a route through the forest. We emerged from the forest to a beautiful view of a lovely Schloss (Castle)  at the end of a large lake, a stunning view. 

Campsite is about 3ks from the castle and town. We are currently sitting in the tent waiting for the rain to stop while typing this up.

No wifi yet again, but tomorrow we get to our hotel in Dsden so should be able to send this from there. 

--
John & Liz Pfahlert
P O Box 9740
Marion Square
Wellington 6141

Thursday, 19th July

Rotta to Torgau.

We camped at Campingplatz Koningsee in the forest just out of Rotta.

The usual rain in the night was followed by a clear but cloudy day. We actually had a fine day!  It was about 60ks for the day, through Prezcsh, Bad Schmiedeberg and Dobern. It was a good quality sealed road, through forest. We also cycled through fields of wheat and sunflowers. 

At Bad Schmiedeberg we met an elderly local lady in the town square. She offered to arrange for us to go into the church and up the church tower. After she got the minister, he took us into the Gothic church (Lutheran) and explained its history. The paintings in the front porch depicting scenes from the Bible were done in the 1400s. There were 220 steps to the top of the tower. 

Liz developed a clunk in her front axle, and as the bearings needed replacing, we found a cycle shop off the town square in Torgau. He said it would be ready by 5pm, so we visited the Schloss - which had two live brown bears in the old moat. Then John went to camp to set up and Liz found the library to use the Internet. 

We camped by a lake, and about 6pm there was a tremendous rainstorm for about 5 minutes before it cleared and was calm and sunny. 

--
John & Liz Pfahlert
P O Box 9740
Marion Square
Wellington 6141

Dresden, 21st July

We awoke to sunlight streaming through the trees at our campsite. We have stayed in some lovely campsites - our previous trip with Tour d'Afrique had us staying in very poor camping grounds, so it is great to find that there are many lovely places to stay.

The sun was very welcome, after so many days of rain. It actually remained fine all day also!
Left camp in a convoy at 8am, for a slow ride into Dresden. Being a Saturday morning there was not too much traffic on the roads. So we arrived at our hotel at 10.15am...too early to check in. We were able to leave our bikes in the hotel car park and go out into the city. As John and I had bought our laundry with us, the first stop was the laundromat, a 10 minute aw from the hotel. The washing on, we went for a coffee at the nearby shopping area. Then back to dry the clothes - only one drier was functioning so fortunately we were the only ones waiting to use it.

Returned to the hotel through one of the main shopping malls, stopping at a sports store to purchase a few things. We were able to get into our rooms, as it was after midday. So collected our bags from the truck which was parked in a large park about 200m away, and hung our tent awning in the shower to dry. As we are going to Prague by train in the morning, we packed the bare essentials for our two nights there into our backpacks, and repacked everything else to go back into the truck.

The Holiday Inn Hotel is in the centre of the city. We wandered into the Altmarkt and the Neumarkt, both large squares in the area of Dresden that was totally destroyed in the War. It has been rebuilt very attractively.

We had to take our bags and bikes to the truck to be loaded for storage while we go to Prague, and then went to dinner at a South African restaurant with Stewart. After dinner we wandered around the Squares enjoying the ambience. The temperature was pleasant, and there were people everywhere. All older people, very well behaved, eating at restaurant tables on the street and standing around watching street buskers. There was a young chap playing a grand piano on the back of a horse-drawn carriage. Around another corner was a trio of young operatic singers, who all had beautiful voice. The whole atmosphere was very pleasant and enjoyable.

20th July. Torgau to Moritzburg

We are now about 15 ks out of Dresden. The route today broadly followed the Elbe River, for a distance of about 95kms. We had favorable winds at out back! Also, it was fine all day until just after we set up our tent, when again it poured. 

We went through the town of Belgin and along the river across from Reisa. Lots of cobblestones, which we don't enjoy as they are hard going. Stopped for lunch at a cafe on the Elbe. 

We left the Elbe after about 70ks and did the last 24ks through forested country, mainly on gravel roads, on the Moritzburg Cycleway. The term Cycleway is a bit of a misnomer, as it is really just a route through the forest. We emerged from the forest to a beautiful view of a lovely Schloss (Castle)  at the end of a large lake, a stunning view. 

Campsite is about 3ks from the castle and town. We are currently sitting in the tent waiting for the rain to stop while typing this up.

No wifi yet again, but tomorrow we get to our hotel in Dsden so should be able to send this from there. 

--

Thursday, 19th July

Rotta to Torgau.

We camped at Campingplatz Koningsee in the forest just out of Rotta.

The usual rain in the night was followed by a clear but cloudy day. We actually had a fine day!  It was about 60ks for the day, through Prezcsh, Bad Schmiedeberg and Dobern. It was a good quality sealed road, through forest. We also cycled through fields of wheat and sunflowers. 

At Bad Schmiedeberg we met an elderly local lady in the town square. She offered to arrange for us to go into the church and up the church tower. After she got the minister, he took us into the Gothic church (Lutheran) and explained its history. The paintings in the front porch depicting scenes from the Bible were done in the 1400s. There were 220 steps to the top of the tower. 

Liz developed a clunk in her front axle, and as the bearings needed replacing, we found a cycle shop off the town square in Torgau. He said it would be ready by 5pm, so we visited the Schloss - which had two live brown bears in the old moat. Then John went to camp to set up and Liz found the library to use the Internet. 

We camped by a lake, and about 6pm there was a tremendous rainstorm for about 5 minutes before it cleared and was calm and sunny. 

--

Castle at Moritzberg

Emerged from the trail through the woods to see this magnificent castle at the end of the lake.

At cafe stop on Elbe River

Heading towards Dresden

Market place in Wittenberg

On the trail outside Berlin

John wearing our official tour jersey

Heading out of Berlin

John in Wittenberg

Tuesday 17th & Wednesday 18th July.

Awoke to a fine morning. Left the hotel around 8am and started our exit from Berlin as a convoy. We cycled through the centre of Berlin, under the Brandenberg Gates, and headed out through the suburbs. It took almost 2 hours to clear the city, stopping many times at traffic lights to get all the cyclists through.
It was a long day. We covered 125 ks and got into camp at 6pm. The route was through the lakes through Potsdam. We got hit by a terrific rain downpour outside Potsdam. It only lasted for about ten minutes, and then stayed fine for most of the rest of the day. Camp was at Radigke, via Grubo.
The route was beautiful, through crops and forest, lots of small towns and lakes. Camp was in a lovely spot, very quiet, and we were blessed by a fine evening. Met a Kiwi from Auckland who was cycling from Munich to Copenhagen. During the night we were hit again by rain, and awoke to a light rain falling. This continued and got more heavy as we prepared to leave camp. So we departed in the rain, which continued until Wittenburg.
We were following the R1 cycle route, the main route through Europe. At times it degenerated to a dirt track, and with the rain was very difficult. The bikes have been covered with mud and dirt every day, requiring much cleaning when we arrive in camp every day. John has had to replace his back tyre, as it has developed a fault. The R1 in a more rugged cycle way than we were expecting, with a range of surfaces from beautifully tarmaced two lane cycle way to root-covered dirt tracks suitable only for mountain bikes.
Wittenburg is a beautiful city, with cobblestones in the city centre. We visited the Castle Church to which Martin Luther nailed his 95 Theses to the door in 1517, beginning the Reformation. We lunched in the city, enjoying the sunshine, and wandered around as it was market day.
The final 20ks to the camp were through Kemberg to Rotta. We are now camped in a pine forest, with a spacious area. The amenities are somewhat Eastern Block! It is a warm evening, tents are up, sun is shining, we a having pre-dinner drinks and nibbles. The cooks are preparing dinner. All is good!

Sunday 15th July, Berlin

Well the previous photos show most of what we got up to today. Family reunion with Helmut, Beate and Susanne Pfahlert and Julian, aged 3.

We went on a walking tour to see the Brandenburg Gate and all the other main sites within walking distance of the hotel. Got hit by a heavy downpour midmorning. Then on to lunch at the revolving restaurant in the tv mast, and a boat cruise with the relations. It was lovely to see Susanna and Beate again, and meet their dad.  

We cleaned and dried our tent, then went out with Karen and Katherine for a light dinner. Tomorrow is marked for finding a new ground sheet for the tent, buying train tickets from Dresden to Prague for the team and finishing cleaning bikes.

--
John & Liz Pfahlert
P O Box 9740
Marion Square
Wellington 6141

Holocaust Memorial in Berlin

Made up of 2700 concrete blocks.

On our walking tour in Berlin

The group took a 4 hour walking tour with an Australian guide who gave us a great introduction to the main historical sites of the central city. John and guide outside the Protestant cathedral.

Liz and Dan with friends Marx and Engles

Janice and Liz outside Berlin museum

View from the TV tower on Berlin

Brandenburg Gate and the Tiergarten in the distance. Protestant cathedral in the foreground.

Pfahlert's in Berlin

Family day in the city of Berlin. Liz and John with Helmut Pfahlert and friend, Susannah and son Julian and Beate Pfahlert. We were shouted a trip up the TV tower for lunch and then a canal trip.

Coffee at Trelleborg

In the rain at Himmelpfort waiting to depart. It rained all day.

Friday 13th July

From Waren to Himmelpfort.  101kms

We were camped beside Lake Muritz at the back of a new admin block at the camping ground. Therre were ferry boats pyling the lake. Left about 8 am via Wesenberg, Priepert and Ravensbruck. The first 60ks was on sealed cycle ways through forest and farmland.  A feature of the area seems to be carved tree stumps. We stopped for morning tea at a large pension, which was being beautifully renovated. A few quiet little villages to cycle through and it started raining around the middle of the day. Lunch was at a bakerei in a larger village, where we had cake and coffee. The lady serving was happy to see 10 wet and dirty cyclists come in!

In the afternoon it continued to rain and we had 30ks of mountain biking terrain to to cover -rather incongruous to the earlier beautifully paved tracks. It certainly shook up the bikes, and was rather muddy and slippery. 

The region is full of lovely little villages, and there are thousands of lakes, many connected by a system of locks and canals. Unfortunately as it was raining it was not possible to take photographs

 in the afternoon. 

 Just before our camp ground we went through the town of Ravensbruck, and after the town was the remains of the concentration camp which had been there during the war. It covered a large site and housed 140,000 people. 

We were pleased to arrive at camp just after 4pm, though it was still raining. One group of three had to be collected from a restaurant about 30ks away as they were lost, the other three arrived in about 7pm.  It certainly was a tough day of riding, and we were in our tent by 9pm. 

The camp is right beside a lake, and there was a large group of people from Jutland (Denmark) staying there on a canoeing holiday. A family of ducks was in residence near our camp spot. As the sun was setting it was clair and a rather beautiful spot. 

--
John & Liz Pfahlert
P O Box 9740
Marion Square
Wellington 6141

John Changing Karens tyre

Himmelpfort to Berlin,14th July

The day has dawned with light rain falling. Everything outside is wet. The tent floor is giving up the ghost in terms of being waterproof and our sleeping mats and clothes are damp. After a quick breakfast everyone is ready to go but standing under the awning of the cooking tent because the rain has really set in. Off we go and the rain doesn't let up for the entire 70 km to Oranienburg, where it finally stops as we board the train.

Which was really a pity because it effectively stopped John from taking photos on what was a beautiful route between little villages and along locks and canals.

John also has a major bike problem develop when one of the spokes on the rear wheel pulled a section of the rim out and buckled the wheel. Dan assisted in straightening the wheel by tightening and loosening spokes, but it kept getting worse and so Liz and John, along with others tired by the relentless rain, boarded a train at Oranienburg for Berlin, a distance of about 35 km.

So for all those who follow in our footsteps, the route was one of the nicer ones we have been on, with a great tarmaced cycle way to follow. It was just a pity the rain spoiled the enjoyment somewhat.

On arrival in Berlin our colleague Garis from Melbourne navigated us to the Ibis hotel with his GPS. The truck was waiting with our gear and we quickIy got showered and changed and Liz headed off to a laundromat with all our clothing. John found out where the best and biggest bike shop in the city was and headed off with Bob and Gloria. Bob has been riding a recumbent bike which is proving too difficult, so he is in the market for a new touring bike.

John had quick success and bought a new rear wheel for 87 Euro. The bike shop changed the cassette over from the old wheel. Bob also found a new touring bike, so all in all a successful mission. A note on the shop. It was about 2 acres in size, 21 bike mechanics working on
fixing bikes, and 5 cashier desks to pay on the way out. Every possible product to do with cycling was on sale.

Dinners was tapas and fine Spanish red wine at a little bar around the corner with 4 of the team and we were in bed by 9 pm.

Camp at Waren

Cooks at work in the background.

11th & 12th July

The absence of wifi means that this update covers two days. The ferry crossing was very calm, so calm you could hardly tell the ferry was moving. We didn't board till 10.30 at night. We shared 4 berth cabins which were very comfortable. Arrival time was 6.30am in Rostok, where we went straight into town for breakfast. Just before we arrived it poured with rain.

We ate at a great diners called Alex where a cooked breakfast was about $13. Then on out of town toward Krakow am See, a distance of about 90km. For those following us the route was through Polchow, Schwann, Butzow & Gustrow to the campsite. The countryside was predominantly wheat fields and other crops. The route was through rolling countryside about half of which was on dedicated cycle ways.

No rain while riding but a brief shower while we were waiting for dinner. This morning we departed about 8.30am for a 50k ride to Waren, via Linstow (morning coffee at a beautifully restored country villa), Loppin and Jabel. The route was among beautiful forest country on dedicated cycle ways. The surface was quite variable with gravel, seal and cobblestones.

The whole area is a lake district with lovely tree lined roads and quaint villages. No rain today while riding, but it hosed down shortly after arriving at camp. Waren is a beautiful village with a cobblestone road through the main street.

The campsite here at Waren is a large grassed area overlooking Lake Muritz. Dinners and breakfasts are supplied by Des and Mick, both of whom are excellent cooks and go out of their way to provide top notch food. Italian wine is €3 a bottle.

We met a German couple on a tandem at Loppin who were amazed that we were heading to Barcelona. Stuart, one of our number, speaks German and was able to describe what we were all up to.

Today was washing day so John hand-washed our clothes and we are hoping they will dry overnight. Stuart has advised us not to leave our shoes outside the tent tonight since raccoons will steal them!

The group is made up of some really experienced riders, two of whom have ridden around the world, and several others who have been on multiple cross-continental rides. We must have been near a military base today because we heard jets at several times today.

One of our number is Ralph who I see has just emerged from the Lake having been swimming. He is an ex Air Force colonel who has been to most places (on a bike) on the planet and is very knowledgeable on a wide variety of topics.

10th June

We woke to a fine but windy morning. Packed our tents as light rain began to fall. After breakfast we set off back through the city of Ystad towards Trelleborg. Most of the way was on a cycle path. There was a very strong headwind which was a little unpleasant, and made it slow going. It was a distance of just over 50 is to the port city.
On arrival we had lunch at a cafe near the port - which is just beside the main shopping area. Then we cycled a few blocks to a Viking Museum. Here we saw a Viking house all set up as a working place, with a fire burning in the centre if the building.

From there we went to the gardens, where hens and roosters, peacocks and other birds roamed freely.
We sauntered through town, and had a coffee at a local cafe. All the other riders were around there also. We sat on the terrace and the wait staff came and turned on the has heater, which made it too hot.
Down to the truck which was parked on the wharf to change into street clothes before going for dinner at another local cafe.
From there we went to the St Nickoli Church, where there was a (free) piano concert. Excellent performance from three different pianists. It went from 7-8, so now we are filling in time until we get to board the overnight ferry for Germany at 10pm. Currently siting in the McDonalds opposite the ferry terminal to use the wifi!
Still very light outside as it doesn't get dark till 10.30, and light again by 3.45 am. This will change as we head further South.

Monday, 9th July

A quiet day in Ystad. Everyone got up about 7.30 and had breakfast, and then sat around talking for a couple of hours. Most of us then walked into the town, since the camp site is 2 kilometers out of town.

The town of Ystad is about 20,000 people. It's on the coast so there is quite a strong sea breeze at times with a cool temp. The centre of the town is touristy with lots of cafes. The town is best known for its half timbered houses, some of which date from the 16th century. There are plenty of streets with cobbles, and no cars in the central town which makes for pleasant wandering about. 

We walked back to camp about 2 pm along the beach front, but it isn't really that nice since the kelp on the beach is rotting and the odour is quite strong. Plenty of little bathing sheds right on the beach front which the locals own.

The afternoon was spent relaxing at camp. Dinner was baked potatoes cooked on the charcoal BBQ with baked fish and coleslaw, followed by fresh strawberries and wine supplied by some random Swedish couple who liked the idea of people riding across Europe and turned up with a cask of white wine.

The camp is full of mostly Swedish people who are having a holiday in their large caravans with awnings, beautifully furnished, packed in side-by-side at the campground. 

A cool day, often the threat of rain which fortunately did not eventuate.

--

Our truck and cook crew

The truck which will carry our luggage, and occasionally our bikes, to Barcelona

Sunday, 8th July - Travel into Sweden

After breakfast we all brought our bags down into the hotel carpark, from where they were conveyed along the road to where the truck was parked on a local square. Once it was loaded we were ready to go! A quick group photo then we left the hotel and travelled the 500m to the Copenhagen Railway Station. Tickets for 1 person and 1 bike to Malmo were purchased, and we assembled on platform 5 for the train. We were all able to fit into the train at once - they go every 20 minutes - there is a special bike carriage which held most of the bikes, the rest were squashed in the entrance way of the carriage which meant that every stop they had to be shuffled to allow for other travelers to get on and off the train.

It was a 35 minute trip to Malmo, crossing the Oresund (between the Baltic and North Seas) on a new bridge which is the longest free-standing bridge in the world.

So we arrived in Sweden at Malmo Railway Station. After disembarking we cycled through to the centre of Malmo, then headed for Ystad. The route was mainly on cycle ways, once out of Malmo we were cycling alongside Route 101 through wheat fields and past other crops. The only livestock we saw were a couple of horses and a few sheep. It was a very pleasant ride, relatively rolling, and lovely and warm, through many little towns. The lunch stop was at a little town, where we purchased rolls and ham and cheese and some fruit.

As we neared the coast the fog was rolling in, so the last we kilometers to Ystad were in the mist, therefore we did not get a clear view of the sea. Many people had been to the beach for the day, and were leaving.

The camp is just past Ystad, and when we arrived the truck was there. We set up our tents and showered. The cooks started their dinner preparation while the campers wrote up the day's reports. Today we rode a modest 70km. We have 2 days here. The campsite is beside a busy road (we have ear plugs) but dinner is now cooking and we have all showered and washed our cycling clothes. Tents are all up and washing lines strung to dry our clothes.

Ready to roll

Getting ready to leave Copenhagen.

Saturday 7th July

We all assembled around 9.30 for a briefing, which included updates on accommodation, the handing out of our special tour jerseys and some rules and guidelines for riding. Then we all prepared our bikes and left for a tour of Copenhagen. There were 16 of us, as even the cooks came along for the ride! Unfortunately the rain continued off and on for the duration of our sightseeing. 

John led us out from the hotel and across the street, then we were on bike paths for most of the ride. It was a 19km jaunt through the city, firstly past the Zoo and up a slight incline (Who said it was a mountain?) then through an area of desirable housing. We meandered round streets until we arrived at the Little Mermaid. From there we negotiated our way past the present Queen's palace to arrive at the bridge to Christiania. Once over the bridge we slowly meandered through a number of streets looking at the alternative lifestylers' residences. 

Returned back to the hotel for before heading out to a late lunch. Tomorrow is D(eparture) Day, so the time has come to finish long term preparations. 

We went for dinner with Stewart and Nelson to the Chinese Restaurant beside the Hotel. 

--
John & Liz Pfahlert
P O Box 9740
Marion Square
Wellington 6141

Liz at Cafe near to our hotel in Copenhagen

Just finished a short bike tour of the city with our fellow travelers led by John. 19 km around the main sites - even our van drivers joined in.
It rained part of the way which made the cobblestones tricky. Now having a fine civilized lunch before we head to Malmo in Sweden tomorrow.

Friday 5th July

Morning dawned and with it came rain. We were not inclined to hurry outside into it so waited until it cleared about 11 am before setting off. Our walk took us through now-familiar streets to the centre of town here we had a coffee at a bookstore near the university - a shop filled with lots of old books and curios, and interesting art works. Then we went on to the Botanical Gardens and had an Interesting walk through the well-labelled plants in the main gardens and in the cactus and tropical garden rooms. There were butterflies in the tropical room.
Nearby was the Rosenborg Palace, built in 1606-34 by King Christian IV. It has been a museum since 1838. The Danish crown jewels, including beautiful crowns of gold, diamonds, and precious jewels, the annointing sword, and many other splendidly bejeweled items are on display in the Treasury basement.
The changing of the guards occurs daily at 11.30am, with soldiers and military band in action. There are huge, beautiful old Flemish tapestries from 1700 depicting the history of Denmark hanging on the walls. Ceilings in all the rooms feature either beautiful paintings or ornate sculptures. The third floor is the Throne Room, with its marble floor and tapestries depicting the Scanian War of 1675-79 on the walls.
After that we walked to the Amalienborg Castle, this being the one where the current Queen lives. There are four castles in the complex, one for the Queen, one for the Crown Prince Frederick and his Australian wife Mary and family, one for other Royals when they visit Copenhagen, and one for visiting important visitors. Unlike Buckingham Palace, here you can wander around right up to the front door!
We meandered our way back to the hotel, with a look inside the Catholic Cathedral. There was a lady practising the organ there, a beautiful sound. The walls are lined with large marble statues of the apostles, and a beautiful marble angel is in the altar area.
Returning to the hotel we showered and met others in the lobby for dinner. Went to a tapas bar around the corner, lovely tasty food. Then back to the hotel to relax before bedtime.

Thursday 5th July

After breakfast we cycled with Janice out to see the famous Little Mermaid statue at the entrance to Copenhagen. There were bus loads of tourists all taking photos of the little statue in the water.
We meandered back through the city and came back along the side of the canal we had cycled around yesterday.
We walked in towards the city and had lunch at a cafe. The hotel is very close to the centre of the city. After lunch we walked through the main shopping mall amidst the other thousands of tourists, and past the new library - the Black Diamond - and on to the Palace. At 3pm there was a tour in English which we joined, and it w interesting to hear the history of the Palace. This is the third Palace, the first was destroyed by fire in 1794, the second in 1884. The kings have always alternately been called Christian or Frederick. In the Great Hall are many large tapestries made for the Queen's 60th birthday in 2000, very brightly colored works which depict the history of Denmark over a thousand years.
From there we headed back to the hotel. We went for dinner in the evening to a Thai restaurant around the corner from the hotel. There were 12 of us at dinner, as most of the tour group have now arrived in Copenhagen.

Impressions of Copenhagen - a large number of pregnant women and women pushing prams, food and housing are expensive, shop assistants are very helpful, most people speak English very well.

Sunshine in Copenhagen

Wednesday 4th July

The hotel breakfast is served in the restaurant on the fifth floor, about level with the roof tops and chimneys of neighboring buildings. We had a very pleasant breakfast in the sun up there.
Bike assembly followed, the bikes had travelled safely from New Zealand and were soon but back together.
Janice, Liz and John went out on their cycles, first to an optician to find some sunglasses for Liz before continuing on to cycle alongside a canal. There was something missing on the cycle ride. No toots, or narrow misses by cars, nor having to watch carefully for unpredictable drivers - all the drama associated with a cycle ride in Wellington was missing! There was a cycle way along both sides of the canal, which was fringed by five-storey high apartments buildings. It had a a grass edge which the locals would use in the evenings for picnicking and relaxing on. There were a number of swans and cygnets on the water. All in all very picturesque.
After our return we wandered down to the nearby square for lunch at Cafe Obelix. The Cafe featured the characters and paraphernalia from the Asterix and Obelix books. Well, after placing our order we waited and waited. It took over an hour before we were served, then another fifteen minutes till Janice and Ruby received their meals. After another 15 minutes Des was still waiting, so he went and asked for a refund and we left. Not impressed, and the food was not good either!
We were told the chef was having a bad day. Des settled for a hotdog from the nearby stand.

Along the road was the Copenhagen History Museum, which featured a display about immigration into Copenhagen. We wandered back to the hotel and relaxed before meeting up with everyone for dinner. There were a few more people going on our trip who have now arrived. We met Bob and Gloria, who last year were in New Zealand to cycle with a man they had met doing the same tour as us the year after we did. When Liz asked if their friend was Jim Pearce, they looked at her strangely. We replied that New Zealand is a small country, and known for its two degrees of separation. Jim had borrowed our maps while he did the trip, as he comes from Timaru and knows Liz's family there.

Dinner was a pleasant meal at a small street-side Spanish restaurant. We were served tapas by the French restaurant owner, who explained that he lived above the shop. (We can relate to that)
The locals wandered out of their apartments to eat street-side at one of these little cafes situated in the basements of the apartment blocks.

After returning to the hotel we sat and chatted before retiring to bed.

Along a Copenhagen canal

Just out on a warmup ride along the side of a canal. Bike lanes all the way, very pleasant.

At Nyhaven

About 9.30pm, after a lovely dinner.

Travel to Copenhagen

Tuesday, 3rd July

Today was spent traveling. We left Amy's flat at 8.45 am for the train at Haringay Station, a walk of less than 5 minutes. At Finsbury Park we farewelled Amy, and boarded the train on the Picadilly Line to go to Terminal 5 at Heathrow. It took just over an hour to get there. After we collected our bike boxes from storage we checked in for our British Airways flight to Copenhagen. There was a long wait at bag drop (15 or more minutes) while the three guys in the queue ahead of us discussed how to re-order their 6 bags to meet the requirements of 1x23kg bag and 1 cabin bag each.
The plane was slightly delayed for take off while engineers changed what the pilot referred to as "a box of tricks down below", so we took off 1/2 hour late. The flight was mostly in cloud, but we could see the coastline of Holland as we flew over, and it was clear for the last 1/2 hour into Copenhagen. So we saw the flat Danish countryside and all the water of the North Sea and the Baltic Sea.

After going through Customs and collecting our luggage we went to the taxi stand where we're were pleased to see station wagons were available for hire - can't fit into a sedan with our luggage! So the taxi driver managed to fit our two bike boxes and bags and us into his vehicle, a Skoda.

It was a bit nerve-wracking during the ride into Copenhagen as he was going along the motorway holding the steering wheel with one hand while trying to get his chip card to drive the meter inserted. This meant he was distracted from his driving! The meter seemed to be ok when we started..... We think it was a scam so the fare was not recorded. When we pointed it out he quoted a rate which was what the guide book said, so that was acceptable. Apart from not being able to talk to him in Danish, and him not speaking a word of English, he also seemed to have no idea of where the hotel was. Fortunately we had the address written down and once we got to the street it was on we could find the number.

First impressions of Copenhagen were that there are lots of cyclists, also lots of tagging on the buildings heading into town.

The hotel (Copenhagen Crown) has a central courtyard, and the sun was streaming in our window. It was about 24 degrees, a very pleasant temperature.

After getting to our room and unpacking it was about 6pm. We were heading out to find somewhere for dinner when we met Janice and Des from Melbourne, and granddaughter Ruby - some of the folks coming on our cycling tour. So we all went off together by bus to the Nyhavn area alongside a canal. This is the very picturesque harbourside area often shown as one of the iconic views of Copenhagen. There were crowds of people out sitting at the various restaurants along the harbourside or eating their takeaway pizza or picnic tea. We went to a French fish restaurant and had a very pleasant meal - dishes chosen included herring, salmon, plaice and mussels.

After returning by bus to the hotel it was time for bed.

Liz & John

Liz and John at Tower Bridge

Olympic Rings added for Olympics this month.

At the London Eye

Day 2 in London

This morning it was raining lightly as we headed into the City for our second day of sightseeing. We started the day with a trip on the London Eye, and even Liz who isn't the greatest fan of heights joined in. For those who don't know the Eye is like a large ferris wheel which takes about half an hour to go around. Each pod holds about 20 people. The rain had cleared by the time we were aboard and we got some fine views of the City. There were virtually no queues which is rare.

Then off for a stroll around Westminster Abbey, Parliament and lunch. After lunch we took a ferry down the river to Canary Wharf where Jerome works. We went back on light rail to wander around the Tower of London and across Tower Bridge. Then we visited a Mr Dickens pub for a refreshing ale. Michelle had joined us by this stage. Then on to dinner at a Thai restaurant where Nick, a friend of Michelle and Amy, joined us.

We went home for a relatively early night, since Amy and Jerome are traveling to Stockholm tomorrow for his younger brother's wedding, and we travel to Copenhagen tomorrow morning.

Amy, Liz, Michelle and John in Carnaby Street London

Day 1 in London - 1st July

The first of two days in London. Amy and Jerome live about 10km or so out of London central near Finsbury Park. the sun rises somewhat earlier here, like about 4.30am so we were bouncing off the walls by 6am and wanting to do something!

A power cut shortly after we got up slowed breakfast and showers down somewhat but we all headed off about 9am on the bus/train and got off at Oxford Circus. Being early there were few people about and we wandered down to a (NZ) coffee shop for a good long black. "Sacred" is a haunt of Kiwis in London, and is where the production of good coffee is well known.

Then a stroll down Regent Street and on to see my tailor on Saville Row, but darn it - he was closed on Sunday! Continued over to see where Amy works in Mayfair and down to Green Park which we crossed on our way for a late morning tea with the Queen at Buck House. She was home but somehow there had been a mix up with the dates. Oh well, we waited for a while and saw the changing of the guard with 15,000 others, including the pushy Chinese who all seemed to want the front row place where I was standing.

Then we strolled back along the Mall which looks like its being got ready to have the volleyball the Olympics held on it, with fencing being placed all along the sides. On to Trafalgar Square which was in full swing celebrating Canada Day. By now the crowds are really out and the whole city is humming. Jerome took us into the National Gallery to see the Constables. What can you really see in a short visit? We spent 1/2 an hour or so in the gallery and then bought some filled rolls for lunch and sat on the foot of a statue in the street to rest our feet, dine and recuperate for 20 minutes.

Then on to do a spot of shopping for clothes which Amy needs. Liz had carefully taken Amy's sun glasses to London when what she had asked for was her pair of traveling shorts.......

We caught up with Liz's sister Michelle who is in the UK for a few days and had another coffee and sat chatting for an hour. By now it was 4.30pm so we headed to the Prince Edward Hall and saw the show Jersey Boys, a story about Frankie Valli and the 4 Seasons. Good fun and the singing was excellent. Then on to dinner at a Moroccan restaurant right next door at which we had booked a table before we went to the show.

Finally it's nearly 10 pm and we've been on the go for 13 hours so it's back home by bus.

Impressions? The city was much cleaner than I was expecting. Lots more people around then I had expected, most tourists like us. Also the city is obviously getting ready for the Olympics in 3 weeks time, so lots of flags and banners up all over the CBD. Only two extremely brief showers of rain, so almost fine all day.

Liz, Amy and Jerome on Day 1 of our tour.

Walking back to their flat through Crouch End, London

Coberamaba Tour begins

So off again on another big journey! Liz and John left Wellington on a very cold 29 June for a bike trip from Copenhagen to Barcelona. The Coberamba stands for Copenhagen, Berlin, Amsterdam, Barcelona. 2600 km by bikes which we take with us, and about the same again by train doing transfers. We are a group of 14 friends doing a self organized trip. It's planned to take 50 days but we have an extra week at each end for visiting family and friends. The trip is supported by a big van driven by Des, a friend from Melbourne.

We got 1 upgrade seat to premium economy from Auckland to Hong Kong which Liz availed herself of! John had two seats in cattle class. The onward leg to London was quite long but uneventful. The flight is routed over Chungdu and the Taklikaman Desert in China which John drove across last year with his brother Paddy. It looks just as barren from the air as it does from the ground.

We arrived at 3.30, and took till 4.30 to exit Customs. Then we spent a while finding the left luggage storage at Terminal 5 where we depart for Copenhagen on Tuesday, this involved a train transfer from Terminal 1. It meant we could leave our two bike boxes and large bag at the airport. Then a 1 hour tube trip to Finsbury Park and a welcome shower to freshen up when we arrived at Amy and Jerome's flat.

They have a great 2 bedroom flat overlooking lots of trees, a very quiet street. Then on to dinner, it was a 15 minute walk to a Greek restaurant where we had a lovely meal - alas of no assistance to the ailing Greek economy!


Liz & John
Sent from my iPad

Checking in!

A beautiful Easter weekend in Wellington

Liz in Queenstown December 2011

Liz at Gladstone 4 April 2012