The Big Apple - 19 September

View over Central Park from Michelle's rooftop. 

Spending the last few days of our extended break in New York staying with Liz's sister Michelle.

The weather has been just beautiful. We walked the length of Central Park this morning for some exercise. Caught a bus up to 110th Street and walked back to  56th through the park. Then went downtown by subway to check out some cycling shops. Now sitting in the Australian Bar on 38th Street waiting to watch the last race of the Americas Cup. We hope this will be the last race.

Off to a musical tonight- Avenue Q, and went to the Apollo theatre last night with Michelle and a friend.

Portland, Maine

Did what people on holiday are supposed to do and spent the morning in bed watching a movie! Beats riding a bicycle! Then off to town - but it poured with rain all afternoon. So we wiled away the hours in the Museum of Art. Good collection of Impressionists including the obligatory Renoir, Monet etc. Also a great collection of Winslow Homers war art.

Tomorrow we head to Boston.

Update from Portland, Maine, USA. 12th September

Since our last post we have travelled across a lot of Canadian highway! 
We drove from Quebec City to Fredericton on 7th September, following the route John cycled. There we stayed for two nights with Angela, one of John's new cycling friends. We had a lovely time with Angela. Went out for dinner with a couple of her friends, and on the Sunday we went to the local art gallery. It did rain on the Sunday morning for a while.  
On Monday 9th we drove to Halifax in Nova Scotia. It was a long day of driving on 4 lane highway. In Halifax we stayed with Karen, a friend from our previous cycling trips. On 10th we drove into the centre of Halifax, and spent a few hours walking around the Citadel. This was built as a fortress mid 1700s to protect Halifax. Fortunately Halifax has never been attacked! 
Yesterday (11th) we drove to Saint John in New Brunswick.  It was very misty much of the way, so we did not get to see the beautiful coastline around the Bay of Fundy. 
Today we drove to Portland in Maine, USA. It was 475 kilometres. The day started out fine, but ended with driving (Liz) through a thunderstorm in heavy rain for the last 200 ks. We were on the main highway, which had woods along both sides of the highway. 
Our trip was through the towns and cities of St Stephens, St Andrews, St George and St David. 
No sooner had we arrived at our hotel there was another almighty thunder and lightening episode, with extremely heavy rain. 
We are staying here for two nights, then travelling to Boston. Tomorrow we will visit the Art Gallery and other attractions here. 

John and friends in Saint John

Montreal to Quebec. Thursday 5th September.

Today we left Montreal and drove to Quebec City where we are staying 2 nights in a hotel in the old part of the city. We drove most of the way on the eastern shore of the St Lawrence seaway on route 132 which is alongside the seaway. This is not the main highway but a secondary road. The speed limit was about 90kph so the 400 km took us till about 3.30pm to cover.

The road travels through many villages, some quite pretty. It's a tourist route called the Route of the Navigators - a reference to the early seafarers along the St Lawrence.

We stopped for lunch at a bakery in one of the villages.

The hotel we are in is the Champlain and has no view but is quite central to the old city.

Montreal, 3rd September

Liz and I are now on our friends' farm about 50km outside Montreal in Quebec. We met Murray and Marilyn on our cycling trip in Europe in 2008 and have been here before in the winter a couple of years ago. Their house is beside a river and is surrounded by trees. All very quiet and a great place to relax. They have friends coming over for dinner this evening; we met them on New Year's Eve 2009.

The previous two nights were spent on Gull Lake near Minden about 150km north east of Toronto. We were staying with Barbara Reid who is mayor of the local shire and was celebrating her birthday with her 7 brothers and sisters and spouses......yes a very social couple of days. She has a dock beside her cottage and a power boat with a 90 horse motor. So we spent a great deal of time swimming and sampling wine! John even tried water skiing.

I was presented with a Canadian cap, flag and tee shirt to congratulate me for cycling across Canada, and was bestowed with the title Captain Canada.

Tomorrow we will go to into Montreal. 

Toronto, 30th August

We left New York on Tuesday, 27th. Picked up a rental car on 52nd Street, and John drove out of Manhatten with the navigational help of Liz and our new friend Pam (the TomTom). 

Drove all day on 4 lane highway, around 500ks, to Rochester in upstate New York. Stayed the night at a lovely hotel. 

On Wednesday we drove to Niagara Falls, on the American side. Spent a few hours walking around there, then across the border to Canada and down through very pretty countryside to Niagara on the Lake, where we walked around the lovely tourist town for an hour.

We have stayed two nights with Brian Doan, one of John's new cycling friends. Went to the Art Gallery of Ontario yesterday by tram, and spent about 2.5 hours there. Brian lives in a semi-detached in Little Portugal, an area about 4ks from the centre of Toronto.

There are many commuting cyclists in this part of Toronto. Good tram services to the centre of town. Last night we went to the movies to see The Butler. It was lovely to be in the cool air-conditioned theatre. It has been around 27/28 degrees with high humidity. 

We are about to head out to Aurora, an hour out of Toronto, to stay with the Broads. It is 10.30am, and we want to avoid travelling in the early afternoon as it is a long weekend here and will be very busy on the highways.

Leaving New York

Here's Liz with our Chrysler. Left New York this morning en route to Rochester where we have s hotel booked for the night. Tomorrow we go to Toronto.

No cycling involved!

Signal Hill -St John's NFLD

Mission accomplished. I arrived at Signal Hill in St Johns at 6pm this evening to a glass Moët.

Have successfully completed my cycle ride across Canada.

Thanks to family and friends who have supported the venture, even if some of you did think I was mad......

2 days relaxing here then off to the Big Apple for some shows and relaxation.

 

Englishtown

Now camped here after a 130km day. Tomorrow we ride 40km to the North Sydney ferry on Cape Breton and catch the overnight ferry to Agentia on NF.

The ferry takes 14 hours. Then we ride to St Johns to end the trip on Thursday - a full days ride of 144km.

Still great weather but we had a head wind today.

The tour owner Bud Jorgensen has joined us today for the last couple of days riding.

Baddeck

Me on the road this morning beside lake Bras d'or. Means Golden Arm. Doing 130 km today from Linwood campground to Englishtown campground 

Currently having lunch with Brian at a restaurant in Baddeck. Only 27 km to go but the day is windy and in our faces so we are a bit slow.

Pictou

Me at the wharf at Pictou

Charlottetown to Lower Barney's River

Today we left Prince Edward Island, riding first to the ferry terminal at Wood Islands 66km away. We had to wait over a hour for the ferry. The ride across the Northumberland Strait took just over an hour.

We arrived in Pictou where Brian and I stopped for fish and chips. We wiled away an hour looking at the sea and talking. Then it was on through the town of New Glasgow to Lower Barney's River where we are camped. Should've a good sunset as we are beside the sea.

The weather is perfect and the terrain easy so it was a good days ride.

The ship behind me is a replica of one that brought the first Scottish settlers to the area in the 1770's.

Tomorrow is an easy ride of 90km to Linwood. Everyone is in a good mood with fine weather and rides end in sight!

Charlottetown

The halls of residence where I am staying

Some pictures of the town 

St Dunstans Catholic Basilica 

Charlottetown

Now on Prince Edward Island. Staying at the student halls of residence. Here's me waiting for the bus to take us across Confederation Bridge at about 11am yesterday.

It's another lovely sunny day here. Just off to do some sightseeing.

Only 4 days riding left to go. 

Shediac

Brian and I arrived on camp just after noon. We had shortened our ride by 13 km by taking the main road. There is always a downside and that was another flat tyre - caused by a fine shard of wire from a truck tire. These types of flats are quite common in highway riding.

We stopped in Shediac for lunch and I had scallops wrapped in bacon. The town is obviously a tourist stopping point. Their claim to fame is the warmest swimming beach north of Virginia. Not sure I'm willing to test that claim, even in the middle of a Canadian summer.

The campsite has us tenting 250m away from the truck - not ideal. Somehow the campsite owner thinks that having us tent literally in the middle of a playing field is ideal.

My tent is the orange one. Taken from the campsite where the truck is.

Dinner tonight is pulled pork sandwiches, beans with butter and pumpkin soup - followed by chocolate cake, vanilla pudding and fresh blueberries.

Tomorrow we rode to Charlottetown on Prince Edward Island. We have to cross Confederation Bridge by shuttle. Look it up on Google if you've not seen the bridge before - quite the feat of engineering being 13 km across the strait.

Shediac

I've reached the Atlantic! So technically I've now already crossed the continent - though we have 5 riding days left. This photo taken on the foreshore at Shediac.

Salisbury

A brief update from the road. Brian and I have abandoned the designated route and are riding to Shediac along the Trans Canada highway. It has a wide shoulder and easy grades. The proposed route was a goat track that would take all day. 

The distance today is 107k but I suspect we will only do 90.

The day is a beautiful with a strong tail wind. Talked by Skype with Liz in London today and she's off to the musical Matilda tonight.

Frederickton to Sussex

Started out at 5.45 to head to a cafe in the city which opened at 6am. All joined on waffles with ice cream and strawberries or bacon and eggs.

I rode with Jim and Mike for the first 50 km on the flat but dropped back on the hills. 

Have been riding by myself and quite enjoying it despite the hills.

Am now in Sussex at the 125k mark with about 15 to do to camp. Am using the free wifi at Tim Hortens to do the blog.

The day is cloudy and quite warm, we really have had good weather. 

Only 6 riding days left now.

Frederickton

The tour has reached Frederickton after 4 fairly long days of 150km each day. Yesterday we did 170. I think it's fair to say some of us are starting to feel worn down and looking forward to the end.

We have eight riding days to go, three to Charlottown in Prince Edward Island where we have another rest day, and then 5 to Saint Johns.

The organizers have had to alter the last few days riding because the ferry from Sydney at the end of the Cape Breton Peninsula to Agentia on New Foundland has been cancelled. It ran into the wharf in fog some days ago and is out for repairs.

So, we are taking the ferry from Sydney to Port Aux Basque on New Foundland on the south west coast of the island. This means an 800km bus ride across the top of the island so they can drop us off 100km out from St Johns to finish the trip.

Anyway today is our rest day. Didn't start out well as I had to sleep on the floor of a mates room last night when my electronic door key didn't work....still, I have had plenty of rougher sleeps in the tent over the past 2 months!

Will wander down into town shortly and see if I can find some free wifi- we are again staying in university dorms with no wifi.

Probably only sporadic wifi from here on as we are a long way from big cities and towns.

Heading into Frederickton

A 162km day. Me about to have morning tea at a Canadian institution.

Lac Baker to Clearview

Another long day but I'm only part way through. Having a burger at Burger King at noon in Grand Falls.

Last night was quite cold and when we started this morning it was only 6 degrees. Like riding in the Rockies! Here is a picture of the lake beside our camp.

The day is beautifully fine though with a strong tail wind. We've done 97k with another 60 to go.

Here is a photo of the group taken in Ottawa a few days ago outside Parliament.

Rivière Quelle to Lac Baker

Today we followed route 132. Had a strong following wind all day do made good time. 

Went through some pretty little villages; St Denis, Kamourska, St Eleuthiere. All have beautiful churches. Several nice lakes - in fact we are camped beside Saint Marc du Lac Long. 

We passed into New Brunswick today. This is Angelas home province so she was keen to get photos of herself at the border. She leaves the tour in 2 days having arrived in Frederickton.

Also moved our clocks forward another hour. We stopped at 1 pm and had pizza for lunch - not a patch on a certain NZ brand we all know!

St Alexandre

Our morning coffee stop enroute to Lac Baker. Cappuccino and caramel cake!

Have done 50km with a strong tailwind to start the day. Now heading south east into the northern Appalachian mountains.

Quebec City to Rivière Quelle

A ride of 141km made longer because of road works. Bryan, Angela and I formed our by now usual team and headed off at about 7am. Breakfast was the usual continental style, but with stale pastries today. Still, beggars etc - I packed a plastic bag full and took them as snacks during the day.

We rode down through the centre of the old city past the Plains of Abraham, the Chateau hotel, and the old fort. Then onto a ferry to cross the St Lawrence.

We followed the seaway downstream all day. Stopped mid morning at St Michel, one of a number of quite attractive eastern Quebec villages along the shores of the St Lawrence. We had real coffee in a cafe with 4 chairs where the owner was am accomplished photographer, with books he has produced on sale. He insisted on taking our photos as we left.

I say real coffee because most coffee drunk in Canada is filter coffee, whereas this chap was serving espresso in small cups the way it should be done.

Later we stopped in L'Islet sur Mer for lunch where had a sit down meal of local sausages, home made hash browns and a salad. It was called Salicorne Cafe - very good.

The landscape was fairly flat today with plenty to see by way of farms, towns etc. followed the 132 highway most of the day. 

One distinctive feature about Quebec is that virtually every town has a large well maintained church or cathedral. A sign of the historic influence of the Catholic Church in the province. 

Dinner tonight was caserole and chick peas with a pear dessert. We are camped beside the St Lawrence.

Self on the road today.

Quebec City

Here are Bryan and I about 30km outside the city yesterday. Last night we went to town with Angela to Portofino restaurant in the old city. Lovely Italian meal.

Then wandered along the cobblestone street for a while before taxiing back to our hotel.

Montreal to Trois Rivières

Stayed overnight on my birthday with our old cycling friends the McCaigs. I shouldn't say old, but we've known them for some years......

They picked me up from Hudson and took me to their farm at Huntingdon. Murray insisted I try his 16 year old malt whiskey - so what was a man to do but accept. Marilyn provided an impromptu birthday cake after dinner. It was great to see them again. We did the Paris to Istanbul trip with them in 2008.

The following day I cleaned my bike. We sat around nattering most of the day. They delivered me back to the hotel in Montreal but I didn't really have time to explore the city. The hotel was great with excellent facilities. I might come back here with Liz to the Dauphin Hotel. 

Today's ride was along the side of the St Lawrence. Did 140km but it was flat with the wind behind. A delightful days riding with views of the water and lots of little towns on the way.

Angela and I rode together and stopped at a French bakery for morning bread and coffee. Stopped mid afternoon for an ice cream.

Our campsite is ok but they need to ban noisy children. Tomorrow is a rest day in Quebec City.

Today rode to Quebec City, another 145km, hot thirsty weather. Followed the St Lawrence seaway all day. Great views and rode with Brian and Angela all day. Stopped at some nice cafes for ice cream etc. easy pace at 22 kph which gives us time to smell the roses.

Staying in a hotel that has no restaurant or bar! And 6 km from downtown. Suspect we will taxi to the old city for a real dinner. 

Ottawa

Spent our rest day in Ottawa. Here is a photo of one of the down town hotels. Did 167km today, a great birthday present with the wind behind us. Averaged 25kph.

Now just outside Montreal. 

Angela and I crossing on the ferry toward Hudson outside Montreal.

Merrickville

This is where we all stopped for coffee this morning. Staying at Carlton University in Ottawa. It's our rest day tomorrow. 

My bike needs more maintenance, a new front derailleur and free wheel in the hub.....

Currently dining in Little Italy. 

A Dutch theme? There were about 30 of them in a row!

Adolfustown to Elgin

110km today and all in the rain! However I found it one of the more enjoyable rides.  The route was beside Lake Ontario for the first 50 km and we had a good tail wind.

Brian, Angela and self yesterday on the ferry to Adolfustown.

It poured in Kingston but Brian, Angela and I stopped at a cafe for an hour to drink real coffee and warm up. The rain kept us there for 2 coffees and cheesecake and the waitress seemed keen to talk.

Kingston would be worth a return visit. Even in the rain it looked attractive. Right on the lakefront.

Angela had a flat tyre soon after we restarted which I changed for her. Then we were on rolling country, but virtually no cars. The last 2 km into camp it poured with rain and we were on a very greasy gravel road.

Everyone used a hose to clean the bikes (and themselves) before we were allowed into the chalet.

 The place has a nice hot shower and Shane is now preparing the evening meal with the use of a real oven!

It's still pouring outside but Peter says its fine in Toronto so with luck a fine day tomorrow.

The attached photo shows Brian and I outside the cafe in Kingston, raining as we departed.

Grafton to Adolfostown

A shorter 102km today. Ride was through very scenic country beside Lake Ontario. 

Met up with a guy riding around the lake, which he does every year. Quite the effort since its about 1000km around

The route map today had an error which added a few kilometers for everyone. A road was named incorrectly so we all missed the turn.

Lots of expensive lakeside homes in this area. Some pretty little towns. We stopped in Picton and had an icecream. The others ordered fish and chips which looked awful, served by a woman who clearly didn't want to deal with customers.

The camp tonite is beside the lake. 

View from my tent. Dinner was interesting: beets, Brussels sprouts, corn on the cob, cucumbers and hard boiled eggs. None of which I like! Had to resort to bread. But breakfast was hot pancakes and strawberries - a delight.

Lots of space so should be quiet. Tomorrow it's supposed to rain heavily, so need to plan accordingly.

Toronto to Grafton

A long and somewhat convoluted exit from Toronto today. It took all day and we covered 160km.

The route however was mainly along a coastal cycle way both on quiet roads and separated cycle way. There was obviously a lot of riding through suburban streets.

Despite the distance it was a pretty route with lots of views of Lake Ontario. Grafton is also mostly on the lake edge. The campsite seems quiet.

The few days off have allowed me to fully recover. It was also a mail day and a big surprise to get one from home wishing me happy birthday for the 4th.

Other news was that one of our number has had to leave the tour. He fell 200m from the hotel in Toronto and broke his knee. Chad was a Canadian living in Japan. Sad day for the small group of us who all liked him. Harry left the tour as planned in Toronto - so we are now 8 riders.

The tour manager from Alliston, Bud and his wife Margot drove the truck to Grafton today to give Shane and Megan another day off in Toronto. They are on dinner duty as I type.

Weather today gave us strong tail wind with the same promised tomorrow.

Here is the team on the Lake Ontario waterfront today.

Toronto

Have been relaxing for a couple of days in Toronto with friends the Broads. 

We went up to Minden Hills, about 150km north of the city to stay at Margie's sisters cottage last night.

Here I am relaxing on Gull Lake in the Minden Hills area. Most of Margies family were there so it was quite social. Liz and I are coming back here in a little over a month.

I leave again Tuesday on the final third of the trip. We only cycle for four days between rest days from here on, so although there are still some long days riding we get more days off.

On Sheguindah Island

160km down and 19 to go!

Heading to the ferry for Tobermory

Blind River to Sheguindah

Today was a sad day for the tour company who is running our tour. There is another group crossing Canada about a week behind us following much the same route. 

Yesterday afternoon a married couple on that tour were killed by a truck. No real details as yet but it's put a dampener on all our spirits. We had a minutes silence at dinner in remembrance of our cycling colleagues.

The road we've been following for the past couple of weeks is not an optimal riding route. The shoulder really isn't wide enough and there are too many large trucks on the road.

Still, I've reached the point with our group where there are more roads to choose from. Hopefully our route takes us along less busy roads from here on.

The ride today was long and hard. 168km with lots of hills and head winds.

But we are at a nice camp by a lakeside. 

Liz has been sharing photos of where she is holidaying. I attach this because it looks somewhat better Thant tent.

Sault Ste Marie to Blind River

23 July

Ride today of 148km. Weather is quite cool and with a strong tail wind. First 80 or so km over some quiet but hilly country roads. Very rough chip seal surface.

Now at the 125 km mark on a good smooth road heading for camp. Angela and I have stopped for a BLT and icecream. 

The town of Soo was quite pleasant as a rest day. Dined at the local family restaurant on the waters edge with Harry, Brian and Angela and watched some tall ships head out.

Pancake Bay to Sault Ste. Marie

Saturday and Sunday 20/21 July

Two great days riding into the Soo as the locals call it. Tomorrow is a rest day.

Lookout at Agawa Bay - it was near here that the Edmund Fitzgerald sank in 1975

Have now done 4200km with 3300 to go! The camp on Pancake Bay was on the lake edge. A stiff wind and sun kept the Mosquitos at bay. We had a campfire and sat around till late evening drinking Italian Merlot - just how camping should be.

I rode with Harry and Angela both days - stopping at the Agawa Bay park centre and various little eateries! 

I've been to see the Bushplane museum here at the Soo - an excellent exhibition of old De Havilland float planes.

The McKenzie River flowing into Lake Superior

The bike is going well - colleague Mile has done his magic and all the gears are now working properly.

I'm planning to stay with our friends the Broads next weekend in Toronto.

Anyway we are all off to dine Italian tonight. Next reports in a couple of days.

John at Lake Superior

Saturday 20 July

Self on the lake edge enroute to Pancake Bay. 

Neys to White Lake Provincial Park and on to Rabbit Blanket

Today is significant because we have now reached the half way point both in terms of days left and mileage done. 

3750km down and much the same to do. A short day today, only 84km. The hills were largely absent and the wind behind us.

I changed both tyres today, with the rear one showing signs of wear and the front one with a split in it. Hope they will both last the remainder of the trip.

Having set up the tent at about 1 pm in the dry the heavens have now opened and its raining steadily. Still about 3 hours till dinner time so I'll probably crawl off to the tent and snooze.

Dinner tonight was pork ribs and Greek salad and potato salad, delicious! Last night we had a chocolate cake! 

The terrain around here is still dominated by forest, but we seem to be well away from the lake (Superior). We passed a couple of gold mines on the road today run by Barrack Gold and Newmont. Jim visited a copper mine on the way past where he lost his younger brother to a rockslide in 1961.

We also saw another black bear crossing the road in front of us this morning. They seem to be quite road smart, waiting for the vehicles to go before crossing.

Relations among the riders is still fine. The new rider who joined us, James, rides at about the same pace as Chad, so are keeping each other company on the road. It's a pity they are so slow because they are now out there in the rain.

It's now after dinner, about 6.15. The rain has stopped but the Mosquitos have chased us into our tents.

Now the next evening. We rode 162km to Rabbit Blanket today. The first 30k were in rain but the day cleared up and we had good sun and variable winds all day.  

I stopped at a couple of places for coffee. 

The support team had sticky buns for us at Wawa at 130k. The day finished with a couple of big hills. Dinner was peanut flavored pasta and beef ragout.

The camp is beside a lake so we have wind keeping the mossies away at present - along with sun. 

Mike has helped me adjust my gears which have been playing up. Only 2 days ride from Sault Ste Marie and a rest day.

Angela and I stopped beside one of the few good photo spots beside Lake Superior.

Nipigon to Neys

Today was a long ride of 162km. It was a hilly ride and took Angela and I just under 8 hours to complete.

We stopped at 50km, Gravel River, and had blueberry pie and ice cream with coffee. The day started in rain with the air thick with Mosquitos. It had rained in the night ensuring all our tents were wet when we put them away.

Another stop at 11am at Rossport where we found a good restaurant for lunch. Caught up with Harry, Linda and Brian. A lovely spot to wile away 1/2 hour.

Another stop at Terrace Bay at a bakery

For afternoon tea. The hills were long and  steep and the day heated up to 33 degrees. We struck a 10km stretch of road works where the seal had been ripped up.

Got into camp at 5 pm and cleaned the bike. Now about to head to bed.

Beside Lake Superior 

Rossport

Angela and self dining at Serendipity Gardens in Rossport, enroute to Neys.

Have done 75km on some big hills and have 90 to do. A good lunch required!

Thunder Bay to Nipigon

Heavy fog for the first 30 km of our trip out of Thunder Bay this morning. Probably a good thing as it prevented me seeing any more of this ghastly town. Perhaps the Yanks could offer to do missile testing using it as a target.....

Nothing to see en route to our camp site except trees. Nothing much at the camp either, which is located beside the main highway. Can't quite understand why camp grounds need to be beside busy highways. 

The bike seems to be working fine after the various new bits were added. Petries Bike shop is something of an institution in Thunder Bay. The mechanic seemed to know his thing.

The ride was relatively short today, just 109 km. There were a few hills but nothing serious. Tomorrow is a long day of 162km with lots of hills. But we are to get good views of Lake Superior.

A new rider James joined us for 10 days starting this morning. 

Shabaqua to Thunder Bay

Easy ride to Thunder Bay for rest day. Bike needed an overhaul. New chain, cluster, one gear shifter and new gear cable. Guess the ride is harder on the gear than expected.

Stopped at Kakabeka Falls on the way in to town.

Thunder Bay is nothing to write home about - a very run down city centre. Their world famous pancake restaurant was dreadful. 

The much vaunted waterfront seemed to be dominated by skateboarders and drunks urinating in public. Sigh.

We leave town tomorrow. At least we get to see Lake Superior for the first time.