Toronto

Have been relaxing for a couple of days in Toronto with friends the Broads. 

We went up to Minden Hills, about 150km north of the city to stay at Margie's sisters cottage last night.

Here I am relaxing on Gull Lake in the Minden Hills area. Most of Margies family were there so it was quite social. Liz and I are coming back here in a little over a month.

I leave again Tuesday on the final third of the trip. We only cycle for four days between rest days from here on, so although there are still some long days riding we get more days off.

On Sheguindah Island

160km down and 19 to go!

Heading to the ferry for Tobermory

Blind River to Sheguindah

Today was a sad day for the tour company who is running our tour. There is another group crossing Canada about a week behind us following much the same route. 

Yesterday afternoon a married couple on that tour were killed by a truck. No real details as yet but it's put a dampener on all our spirits. We had a minutes silence at dinner in remembrance of our cycling colleagues.

The road we've been following for the past couple of weeks is not an optimal riding route. The shoulder really isn't wide enough and there are too many large trucks on the road.

Still, I've reached the point with our group where there are more roads to choose from. Hopefully our route takes us along less busy roads from here on.

The ride today was long and hard. 168km with lots of hills and head winds.

But we are at a nice camp by a lakeside. 

Liz has been sharing photos of where she is holidaying. I attach this because it looks somewhat better Thant tent.

Sault Ste Marie to Blind River

23 July

Ride today of 148km. Weather is quite cool and with a strong tail wind. First 80 or so km over some quiet but hilly country roads. Very rough chip seal surface.

Now at the 125 km mark on a good smooth road heading for camp. Angela and I have stopped for a BLT and icecream. 

The town of Soo was quite pleasant as a rest day. Dined at the local family restaurant on the waters edge with Harry, Brian and Angela and watched some tall ships head out.

Pancake Bay to Sault Ste. Marie

Saturday and Sunday 20/21 July

Two great days riding into the Soo as the locals call it. Tomorrow is a rest day.

Lookout at Agawa Bay - it was near here that the Edmund Fitzgerald sank in 1975

Have now done 4200km with 3300 to go! The camp on Pancake Bay was on the lake edge. A stiff wind and sun kept the Mosquitos at bay. We had a campfire and sat around till late evening drinking Italian Merlot - just how camping should be.

I rode with Harry and Angela both days - stopping at the Agawa Bay park centre and various little eateries! 

I've been to see the Bushplane museum here at the Soo - an excellent exhibition of old De Havilland float planes.

The McKenzie River flowing into Lake Superior

The bike is going well - colleague Mile has done his magic and all the gears are now working properly.

I'm planning to stay with our friends the Broads next weekend in Toronto.

Anyway we are all off to dine Italian tonight. Next reports in a couple of days.

John at Lake Superior

Saturday 20 July

Self on the lake edge enroute to Pancake Bay. 

Neys to White Lake Provincial Park and on to Rabbit Blanket

Today is significant because we have now reached the half way point both in terms of days left and mileage done. 

3750km down and much the same to do. A short day today, only 84km. The hills were largely absent and the wind behind us.

I changed both tyres today, with the rear one showing signs of wear and the front one with a split in it. Hope they will both last the remainder of the trip.

Having set up the tent at about 1 pm in the dry the heavens have now opened and its raining steadily. Still about 3 hours till dinner time so I'll probably crawl off to the tent and snooze.

Dinner tonight was pork ribs and Greek salad and potato salad, delicious! Last night we had a chocolate cake! 

The terrain around here is still dominated by forest, but we seem to be well away from the lake (Superior). We passed a couple of gold mines on the road today run by Barrack Gold and Newmont. Jim visited a copper mine on the way past where he lost his younger brother to a rockslide in 1961.

We also saw another black bear crossing the road in front of us this morning. They seem to be quite road smart, waiting for the vehicles to go before crossing.

Relations among the riders is still fine. The new rider who joined us, James, rides at about the same pace as Chad, so are keeping each other company on the road. It's a pity they are so slow because they are now out there in the rain.

It's now after dinner, about 6.15. The rain has stopped but the Mosquitos have chased us into our tents.

Now the next evening. We rode 162km to Rabbit Blanket today. The first 30k were in rain but the day cleared up and we had good sun and variable winds all day.  

I stopped at a couple of places for coffee. 

The support team had sticky buns for us at Wawa at 130k. The day finished with a couple of big hills. Dinner was peanut flavored pasta and beef ragout.

The camp is beside a lake so we have wind keeping the mossies away at present - along with sun. 

Mike has helped me adjust my gears which have been playing up. Only 2 days ride from Sault Ste Marie and a rest day.

Angela and I stopped beside one of the few good photo spots beside Lake Superior.

Nipigon to Neys

Today was a long ride of 162km. It was a hilly ride and took Angela and I just under 8 hours to complete.

We stopped at 50km, Gravel River, and had blueberry pie and ice cream with coffee. The day started in rain with the air thick with Mosquitos. It had rained in the night ensuring all our tents were wet when we put them away.

Another stop at 11am at Rossport where we found a good restaurant for lunch. Caught up with Harry, Linda and Brian. A lovely spot to wile away 1/2 hour.

Another stop at Terrace Bay at a bakery

For afternoon tea. The hills were long and  steep and the day heated up to 33 degrees. We struck a 10km stretch of road works where the seal had been ripped up.

Got into camp at 5 pm and cleaned the bike. Now about to head to bed.

Beside Lake Superior 

Rossport

Angela and self dining at Serendipity Gardens in Rossport, enroute to Neys.

Have done 75km on some big hills and have 90 to do. A good lunch required!

Thunder Bay to Nipigon

Heavy fog for the first 30 km of our trip out of Thunder Bay this morning. Probably a good thing as it prevented me seeing any more of this ghastly town. Perhaps the Yanks could offer to do missile testing using it as a target.....

Nothing to see en route to our camp site except trees. Nothing much at the camp either, which is located beside the main highway. Can't quite understand why camp grounds need to be beside busy highways. 

The bike seems to be working fine after the various new bits were added. Petries Bike shop is something of an institution in Thunder Bay. The mechanic seemed to know his thing.

The ride was relatively short today, just 109 km. There were a few hills but nothing serious. Tomorrow is a long day of 162km with lots of hills. But we are to get good views of Lake Superior.

A new rider James joined us for 10 days starting this morning. 

Shabaqua to Thunder Bay

Easy ride to Thunder Bay for rest day. Bike needed an overhaul. New chain, cluster, one gear shifter and new gear cable. Guess the ride is harder on the gear than expected.

Stopped at Kakabeka Falls on the way in to town.

Thunder Bay is nothing to write home about - a very run down city centre. Their world famous pancake restaurant was dreadful. 

The much vaunted waterfront seemed to be dominated by skateboarders and drunks urinating in public. Sigh.

We leave town tomorrow. At least we get to see Lake Superior for the first time.

Atikokan to Shabaqua

Saturday July 13

For today's ride of 138km just read yesterday's blog!

Staying at a loggers camp tonight. An unexpected treat to stay indoors. The camp owner is cooking us dinner and breakfast.

About 35 degrees at present and 95% humidity. 

Must be heading east. All rivers from here on all rivers flow to the Atlantic. We are reaching the half way point next week.

Fort Frances to Atikokan

July 12 - 148 km

Hard to find much to say about today. Hills, forest, more hills, more forest.....

No shops, garages, houses along the way. Took 6 hours 40 minutes, about 1/2 hour less than for the same distance yesterday.

Lots of large pesky black flies buzzing us while we rode. They must be attracted by the smell of sweat, sun cream etc. Its one of the less attractive aspects to camping in Canada. I've gone through 2 containers of insect repellent and the trip is not quite 1/2 way through.

I rode with Linda, Angela and Harry. We stopped regularly but there really wasn't a lot to see - other than forest and hills.

This is the 4th day of 6 heading toward Thunder Bay. I suspect the scenery will be the same tomorrow.

Atikokan is nothing to much to write about. A service town of a few hundred people about 3 km off the main road. The camp ground just has an ablution block. At least it will be quiet. However the Mosquitos are unbearable! Simply won't leave us alone. Only place to be is inside the tent.

The young lady Megan parked the truck beside the road to resupply us all with water about 85k into the ride today. Once we had all left she found she was stuck and had to wait a couple of hours to get towed out.

Sioux Narrows to Fort Frances

Another beautiful fine day, now in Ontario. However it was quite hilly and we had a strong headwind most of the day. 

I rode with Harry Roettele who is about 75, and Linda most of the day. We stopped at Nestor falls mid morning where I had and ice cream. The fellow running the place allowed us to sit in the lounge adjacent his store looking out over the falls. 

He made us a fresh pot of coffee and told stories about the area.

We were beside Lake of the Woods still, he says it has 14,600 islands - many privately owned with bachs on them.

The ride today was 150 km, which took me 7 hours and 10 minutes - so quite a hard day at the office.

Tonight we are staying in a hotel even though it isn't a rest day - the place is the  Rendezvous Hotel on Rainey Lake. Lovely views. Had a good pasta dinner at the adjacent hotel. 

West Hawk Lake to Sioux Narrows

The rolling hills of Ontario were upon us today. Nothing too steep or long but I was ready for camp after 128 km of them!

I averaged 22.6 kph but I felt slow.

We stopped in Kenora for lunch and at several other places for photos. The area has lots  of lakes - especially Lake of the Woods. Many wealthy locals have holiday homes on the lakeshore, and indeed many of the islands in the lake are privately owned.

We crossed into Ontario a few kilometers from camp. Tonight we have peach cake for dessert. 

The weather at least was cool with a wind that if not behind us didn't cause too much trouble. 

Selkirk to West Hawk Lake

Tuesday 9 July - 158 km 

Despite the distance the ride today was relatively easy. We left town at about 6.15am and soon turned east with the wind behind us where it stayed all day.

Stopped at Beausejour for a second breakfast of bacon, eggs, toast and fried potato. At this stage we had a few spots of rain and had all donned our rain coats because of the cold. 

It didn't amount to much and they soon came off again. The real flat prairies stopped abruptly at 80 km from Selkirk and the forests and granite of the Shield appeared.

We stopped every 20 km or so and for coffee in Rennie, where there is just an old hotel and gas station. The sign says it all really!

Shortly after this photo we were riding beside a small lake when a Canada Goose charged out of the reeds at me! Reminds me of a similar occurrence in Europe along the Danube with Liz.

Approaching West Hawk Lake there were a few more hills but nothing serious. The campsite is right beside the lake. There is a wild deer wandering around the camp, allowing people to walk right up to it.

Last night there were a collection of strange looking vehicles at our hotel - these proved to be restored railway jiggers. There is a society of 2000 members in North America who run these jiggers on operational rail lines between scheduled services. They travel all over the continent in groups having organized jigger fests.

And I thought model aero planes was a strange hobby!

Selkirk

Today is rest day. Selkirk is a commuter suburb of Winnipeg and is a rather spread out place with few stores of interest.

I've been down to Safeway and bought crusty French bread and cheese for lunch. Stopped at Tim Hortons for a coffee and talked to Amy.

Now sitting and talking with Mike, Angela and Harry as they clean their bikes. 

Will no doubt rest for the afternoon. 

The trip is nearly 4 weeks in and we have had generally fine weather. Only two days rain in the Rockies.

The headwinds and heat of the Prairies have been a bit testing at times, but have prepared us well for the next 2 weeks where we ride onto the hill country of the Canadian Shield where many hills are expected. This is the route that takes us from here to Thunder Bay and on to Sault Ste. Marie. This is supposed to be a very scenic part of the trip so perhaps the photography will improve.

It seems hard to believe we have ridden 2700km already. 1600 of those in the last   11 days riding from Calgary. I've had 3 flat tires but no other issues. 

The roads vary a great deal in both quality and whether there is a shoulder or not. Many of our group have never ridden on roads without a paved shoulder 2m wide. Not sure how they would handle NZ where there are no shoulders at all!

Mike from Ottawa has now left is as planned so we are down to a group of 10. 

Memorial to George Antoine Belcourt

Portage La Prairie to Selkirk

Today was the flattest days ride of the trip. 120km on land as flat as a table top. The wind of about 20kph was behind us so it made for easy riding.

Tomorrow is our rest day. The only place of not today was a country cemetery where came upon s memorial of one George Antoine Belcourt. No doubt an early Jesuit? Unsure. He spent his life working among the native Indian population and left a dictionary of one of their languages as a legacy.

Next week we leave both Manitoba and the prairies and head into Ontario and the granite of the Canadian Shield. Lots of hills and forests.

Dinner last night was vegetable curry with rice and chick peas followed by gateau. Had some very heavy rain in the night and no water in the camp when we got up this morning.

The hotel in Selkirk is fine and Mike and I have just been to Barney's restaurant for dinner across the road.

Minnadosa to Portage la Prairie

A good easy day today. Got away from the camp at about 6.15am. Peter set a cracking pace out over the flat country. We did the first 90 km in under 3 hours and then slowed down for the remainder of the 146 km day. Did an average speed of 28 kph for the day.

No hills, no wind and a good cloud cover. But the day was still a warm 26 or so. 

Nothing much to report about the landscape. The little lakes so common over the past couple of weeks have disappeared. Lots of productive wheat and other crop farming.

Sorry this photo is a bit dark but this was about 7am. The Yellowhead Trail is the route we've been on for a few days.

Now only 1 easy days ride to Winnipeg - though we are staying at Selkirk about 30 km out of town.

The campsite here at Portage La Prairie has lots of trees, though within hearing distance of the Trans Canada highway. I've given my bike a good clean as well.

On the way here today we passed the birthplace of Margaret Lawrence, a Canadian author of some note for those of you interested in such things.

Tomorrow night is our rest day. Mike from Ontario who has been riding with us leaves the group in Selkirk.

Binscarth to Minnadosa

119km

Today can be regarded as an easy one. A relatively short ride with the terrain flat, wind behind us and partial cloud cover. Still about 30 degrees - so a long way from being cool.

Arrived in Minnadosa about 12.30pm, so quite early compared to some of our arrival times. It's much too hot to lie in the tent. So here we are under the awning of the truck, doing the blog and enjoying the cool breeze.

The day yesterday needs some further comment. Jim, one of the more mature riders at 70+ started to take the shortcut but changed his mind because he thought the gravel would be too hard. He turns round and goes back the long way, striking 16 km of continuous gravel that way as well. Result? A 200km ride and he still arrives smiling! One tough old coot!

I've been for a swim in the lake adjacent the camp, a rather murky affair but refreshing. Chris arrived early and has swum from one side to the other and back - about a kilometer each way.

Regina to Crooked Lake

Wednesday July 3 - 175km

Today was the longest day in terms of distance, so most of us got away quite early to avoid the sun. A group of us departed at 4.45am with the sun still 30 minutes from rising. 

It was a beautiful clear day but as usual a very strong cross wind was blowing from the south. This made for a tough ride for the first 127km, where we then turned downwind for 30k. The final 25 k or so were again into a strong headwind.

We stopped at a bakery at Indian Head for buns and coffee. and again at Grenfell to refill water bottles where we sat in the shade of the tourism office beside the Trans Canada highway. Of course there were the normal 20km breaks where we stop for 5 minutes. We also had a couple of punctures, with both Angela and myself picking up fine steel shards from truck tires that blow out.

The last part of the ride was down the Qu'Appelle valley, a deeply incised valley into the surrounding prairies. A lake by the same name abuts the campground and has lots of holiday houses on the shores. The camp ground has good facilities and I've found myself a spot beneath the trees in the cool. I'm leaving the tent fly off tonight because the current temperature is 34 degrees.

I feel pretty good considering the distance. I'm having some saddle rash despite using the cream on my shorts from day 1. This is an occupational hazard!

Thursday 4 July

Crooked Lake to Binscarth - 127

Finally the wind has turned and is behind our backs. What a difference it makes to both pace and our spirits.

We followed Lake Qu'Appelle for about 30 km to start the day. There were beautiful views over the lake and adjacent escarpment.

We stopped off at about 60km to a country cafe and store. It was full of retired farmers drinking coffee and telling tales! I struck up a conversation with a group of them who were keen to hear about what we are doing - we are usually a talking point at whatever cafe we stop at.

In the town of Esterhazy our truck was parked by the road. Megan was trying to convince us that there was a stretch of gravel road about 35 k ahead that justified a diversion adding 30km to the days riding. 

I refused to bite and Linda and I headed toward the gravel. It was nothing much, I guess as a city person Megan doesn't drive much on gravel.

As a result Linda and I arrived in camp 1 1/2 hours before our colleagues. Given that its 32 degrees at 3.30 pm we made the right call.

We also crossed into  Manitoba today.

The campground has good grassed areas under trees and a swimming pool which I have availed myself of.

Craik to Regina - Monday 1 July Canada Day

Today was the last of 6 days on the go. This section of the ride is mainly on the prairies and covers 853km.

The last 3 days have been into the wind so it's been a very tough week.

Today is our rest day in Regina so I'm going to be doing lots of sleeping.

There isn't much wifi outside the main cities, especially on rural campgrounds - so you may only receive posts on rest days.

The weather is very hot with most days over 30 now, so we are always up and on the road by 6am to avoid the heat of the day.

Tomorrow is our longest day by distance out to Crooked Lake -172km. Hopefully the wind will be assisting us.

28 - 30 June - Youngstown - Kindersley - Outlook - Craik

At the border

Early Alberta tractor

John & friend

Early Mennonite church

River at Outlook

Friday 28 June

A hot day on the prairies. Still quite a bit of rolling country but a good road and a wide shoulder. The bad roads of Alberta gave way to fine surfaces and good pace as we crossed into Saskatchewan.

The roads in Alberta are on a concrete base which has been sealed over. The result is that about every 10m there is a rough joint from which the vehicles have knocked the seal out. Hard on the butt!

The damp spring has filled all the lakes and ponds along the side of the road, and there is an abundance of waterfowl breeding. All the fields are knee high in grass, as are the roadsides. I'm told they are often browned off at this time of year.

We started early this morning. Most of us were away by 6.30am. Some got away at 5am - insomniacs!

There is a joke about the prairies that if your dog runs away you can see if for 3 days. We haven't got to land that flat just yet. In fact the rolling country makes for interesting views.

This is the third night with no wifi, I guess you know you are far from the big cities. Most of the named towns are little more than a gas station. Many are in name only, perhaps only a broken down old barn evidence of former habitation.

The days are warm with temps in the high 20's. Getting into camp by about 2pm means you avoid the heat of the day. However the wind also has to be favorable. I've been in for 1 1/2 hours and there are still 5 out on the road in nearly 30 degrees.

Camp is a generous term. It's little more than a parking lot with some grassed verges. Only about 3 trees in sight.

Dinner tonight was at the Golf Club across the road from the campground. Fried chicken with baked potatoes, followed by cheesecake.

Tomorrow we have all asked for breakfast to be ready at 5.30 am so we can do the ride before it heats up too much.

Its morning now, but not a good nights sleep. The town is clearly home to a good number of the morons and rednecks who live in Canada. Lots of partying keep many of us awake till 1am till they fell asleep.

Saturday 29 June Kindersley to Outlook

Another long day. 154km into a headwind with the landscape still rolling. Average speed at 22kph showed how hard it was.

The camp is beside the South Saskatchewan river, which is surprisingly large. Seems to be nice and quiet. There is a good swimming pool but no one is using it because they charge a $5 entry fee! The facilities are about 600m from the tent sites though - not ideal.

Dinner tonight was hot dogs and buns with tomato sauce, cole slaw and beets - followed by cheesecake.

Two more days till we get to Regina and our rest day. Can't believe we've ridden over 600km in 4 days. Most riders find this harder work than in the Rockies.

Sunday 30 June - Outlook to Craik 118km

Still no wifi. Still a strong headwind. Hills have gone. Temperature was 26 degrees. Hard work!

Stopped at Kenaston for our second breakfast at 9am, since we had risen before 5am. French toast tasted great.

Arrived into camp at about 1.30pm. Found some nice shade and set up camp.

We have a good story from today. Brian awoke with a start last night just before dark. He thought it was the sun coming up and that he'd slept all night. So he breaks camp and sets off toward Craik. It finally dawns on him it's actually getting darker! So, he rode all night and arrived at 6.30am and slept under a tree till we arrived. We all had a good laugh at his expense.

The weather is really heating up. The day following our rest day is supposed to be 34 degrees. We will probably start really early to avoid the heat.