We have had a great time in Swakapomund. Yesterday we went on the dunes on quad bikes, looking at the wildlife there. Today we went for a two hour flight along the coast. The rest of the time was spent shopping and relaxing.
Internet is very very slow, and so not easy to add photos or anything. So we will be out of wifi for the next four days or more, possibly until we get to Capetown.
Friday, August 29, 2014
Wednesday, August 27, 2014
August 26th. John is jumped on by a cheetah!
We had a 1&1/2 hour stop in Outja and caught up on emails and internet with the free wifi at a lovely German bakery. The toilets there were lovely and clean, so it was a pleasant break. Walked down a couple of blocks through the town to the supermarket and bought more water. We have been drinking purchased water everywhere, and needing lots every day because of the heat. However teeth cleaning and cups of tea is done with local wat
In the supermarket were some young women from the him ä tribe, which we were about to visit. The photos on Facebook will show them. The contrast between them and the business man in his suit was rather extreme. Lovely well-stocked supermarket.
From Outja we drove for about 15 minutes to visit the Himba tribe. This is a group of people who still live in the traditional way. There was a European man around the 1950s who married a Himba woman. She could not have children, so the adopted some orphans and set up a village for other orphans to be cared for by young women. There were some lovely young children there, and we were shown the traditional way the women clean themselves (no water, a herb smoke sauna), and how they live. An interesting place - there are 3-4,000 Himba people left. However a bit of cynicism raised because of the commercialisation of their way of life - there were a couple of other buses of tourists also there paying a fee to see the area and bringing food and school items.
From there it was a short drive to Otjitambi Cheetah Park where we were to stay. On arrival we went into the high-fenced owners house to pat the four tame cheetahs there. They had just been fed so we watched them devour their meal of meat. John was kneeling taking a photo of one when another came up and jumped on his back and took off his hat. The cheetah then proceeded to play with the hat! Eventually the hat was recovered in one piece. Jeromé also had the same thing happen to him later, as did Monica.
After we drove on a few kilometres to our camp site we were picked up by the owner and his father in a couple of utes with trailers, and taken to feed the wild cheetahs. We stood on the open decks,vans were driven into the large enclosures. The animals were thrown large pieces of meat, which they caught and dragged away to devour. There was another enclosure with a mother and three cubs, and one with a mother and two cubs.
Tents erected, shower - lovely and hot - then Liz was on cooking duty. Very easy meal to prepare - as we had a campfire we had baked potatoes, a bean salad, and steaks on the barbeque. Following dinner we were entertained by John reciting poetry and Amy singing a song, as well as Phil reciting a few limericks. Bed at 9.30 in time for an early start.
Alarm rang at 5.00am and we were all packed up and on the road at 6.30. The first town we passed through was Kamanjab. After that we turned onto a gravel road, wide, in good condition. Very dusty though. It was a long days drive. As we approached the Atlantic Ocean Coast, known as the Skeleton Coast, there was no vegetation, just sand as far as the eye can see.
Just arrived in Swakopmund. Staying here for three nights in proper beds. Going out for dinner tonight as a group.
In the supermarket were some young women from the him ä tribe, which we were about to visit. The photos on Facebook will show them. The contrast between them and the business man in his suit was rather extreme. Lovely well-stocked supermarket.
From Outja we drove for about 15 minutes to visit the Himba tribe. This is a group of people who still live in the traditional way. There was a European man around the 1950s who married a Himba woman. She could not have children, so the adopted some orphans and set up a village for other orphans to be cared for by young women. There were some lovely young children there, and we were shown the traditional way the women clean themselves (no water, a herb smoke sauna), and how they live. An interesting place - there are 3-4,000 Himba people left. However a bit of cynicism raised because of the commercialisation of their way of life - there were a couple of other buses of tourists also there paying a fee to see the area and bringing food and school items.
From there it was a short drive to Otjitambi Cheetah Park where we were to stay. On arrival we went into the high-fenced owners house to pat the four tame cheetahs there. They had just been fed so we watched them devour their meal of meat. John was kneeling taking a photo of one when another came up and jumped on his back and took off his hat. The cheetah then proceeded to play with the hat! Eventually the hat was recovered in one piece. Jeromé also had the same thing happen to him later, as did Monica.
After we drove on a few kilometres to our camp site we were picked up by the owner and his father in a couple of utes with trailers, and taken to feed the wild cheetahs. We stood on the open decks,vans were driven into the large enclosures. The animals were thrown large pieces of meat, which they caught and dragged away to devour. There was another enclosure with a mother and three cubs, and one with a mother and two cubs.
Tents erected, shower - lovely and hot - then Liz was on cooking duty. Very easy meal to prepare - as we had a campfire we had baked potatoes, a bean salad, and steaks on the barbeque. Following dinner we were entertained by John reciting poetry and Amy singing a song, as well as Phil reciting a few limericks. Bed at 9.30 in time for an early start.
Alarm rang at 5.00am and we were all packed up and on the road at 6.30. The first town we passed through was Kamanjab. After that we turned onto a gravel road, wide, in good condition. Very dusty though. It was a long days drive. As we approached the Atlantic Ocean Coast, known as the Skeleton Coast, there was no vegetation, just sand as far as the eye can see.
Just arrived in Swakopmund. Staying here for three nights in proper beds. Going out for dinner tonight as a group.
Monday, August 25, 2014
No idea of the day - have been told it is 24 August - Sunday
Yesterday we left camp beside the Kavango River at 6.25 am. It was a long days drive of 700 km. passing lots of little villages for the first part of the journey. I guess nothing much has changed in terms of how the locals live for 20,000 years. Mud huts and wooden and grass palisades to keep out the wild animals. Lots of goats being raised. The view was more of the same, hot and dry with scrub the whole way. Some of the White Namibian farmers have fenced their land and run big ranches.
We entered Etosha National Park and camped for the evening in a fenced enclosure, Numatoni. We went and visited a waterhole after dinner, but nothing was doing. Today, the 24th we drove across the national park and are now camped on the eastern side. We stopped at a middle camp for lunch and a swim - there is no getting out of vehicles in the park! It was a very warm, around 30 degrees. And we are advise that in Wellington there was snow on the Rimutakas recently! We left just after six am and didn't arrive until five thirty. Usual scurry to get tents up before it gets dark, unpack, shower, then have a drink while waiting for dinner, sitting in the balmy evening with a fence beside us keeping out the wild animals! The evening temperature drops doing to low single digits, a huge temperature fluctuation every day. After dinner, dishes if on duty (Liz), then we went to the waterhole. It is a securely fenced, floodlit area at the back of the camp. We had a black rhino come within 20 metres of us - amazing. There were also giraffes spreading their legs wide to get down to drink, and elephants, as well as a couple of jackals which were slinking around, blending in to the rocky area very well.
We have seen elephants, a black rhino, giraffes, zebras, a warthog, oryx, black-faced impala and springbox to mention a few animals today.
Monday 25th
We were woken a few times in the night by the lions roaring - a very powerful sound. It is very comfortable in our tent, however the nights get quite cool. Woke up at 5.15 and got dressed then, although the alarm was set for 5.30. Bedrolls deflated, sleeping bags packed, tent down, time for breakfast. Cereal, toast and tea. Then we had time to go back to the waterhole and were very excited to see a male lion there drinking. So we got a few good shots of him on the camera.
Back on the truck, and we exited the park at the western gate. Another tour truck was at the exit gate and had had all their 15kgs of vacuum packed meat confiscated by the guard - you are not allowed to take raw meat across checkpoints - however usually vacuum packed meat is able to be taken through. So the tour leader was burning the meat - otherwise the guard would have no doubt kept it to eat.
Just stopped in a town with wifi Outjo!
Yesterday we left camp beside the Kavango River at 6.25 am. It was a long days drive of 700 km. passing lots of little villages for the first part of the journey. I guess nothing much has changed in terms of how the locals live for 20,000 years. Mud huts and wooden and grass palisades to keep out the wild animals. Lots of goats being raised. The view was more of the same, hot and dry with scrub the whole way. Some of the White Namibian farmers have fenced their land and run big ranches.
We entered Etosha National Park and camped for the evening in a fenced enclosure, Numatoni. We went and visited a waterhole after dinner, but nothing was doing. Today, the 24th we drove across the national park and are now camped on the eastern side. We stopped at a middle camp for lunch and a swim - there is no getting out of vehicles in the park! It was a very warm, around 30 degrees. And we are advise that in Wellington there was snow on the Rimutakas recently! We left just after six am and didn't arrive until five thirty. Usual scurry to get tents up before it gets dark, unpack, shower, then have a drink while waiting for dinner, sitting in the balmy evening with a fence beside us keeping out the wild animals! The evening temperature drops doing to low single digits, a huge temperature fluctuation every day. After dinner, dishes if on duty (Liz), then we went to the waterhole. It is a securely fenced, floodlit area at the back of the camp. We had a black rhino come within 20 metres of us - amazing. There were also giraffes spreading their legs wide to get down to drink, and elephants, as well as a couple of jackals which were slinking around, blending in to the rocky area very well.
We have seen elephants, a black rhino, giraffes, zebras, a warthog, oryx, black-faced impala and springbox to mention a few animals today.
Monday 25th
We were woken a few times in the night by the lions roaring - a very powerful sound. It is very comfortable in our tent, however the nights get quite cool. Woke up at 5.15 and got dressed then, although the alarm was set for 5.30. Bedrolls deflated, sleeping bags packed, tent down, time for breakfast. Cereal, toast and tea. Then we had time to go back to the waterhole and were very excited to see a male lion there drinking. So we got a few good shots of him on the camera.
Back on the truck, and we exited the park at the western gate. Another tour truck was at the exit gate and had had all their 15kgs of vacuum packed meat confiscated by the guard - you are not allowed to take raw meat across checkpoints - however usually vacuum packed meat is able to be taken through. So the tour leader was burning the meat - otherwise the guard would have no doubt kept it to eat.
Just stopped in a town with wifi Outjo!
Saturday, August 23, 2014
August 22nd
We have seen a lot since our last update!
The sunset cruise on the Chobe River was an amazing way to see a lot of wildlife as they came to the river to drink. There were zebra, elephants, giraffe, warthogs, wildebeest, crocodiles and more, as well as many birds. It was a good way to get close to the animals, joining the many other water craft filled with tourists out doing the same thing.
On our return to camp we had a barbeque prepared by the camp staff - extremely well cooked steak (ie tough and dry) and tasty coleslaw, then it was time for bed.
19th August - In the morning we were up early 5.30 am, tents down, breakfast, then onto the truck and on the road before 7.30. John, Richard and Jeromé are in the group of truck packers, so with a full truck of 34 it is like solving a Tetris puzzle to get all the tents, packs and cooking gear fitting into the vehicle every morning.
So we drove for most of the day, about 650 km's including a stop between districts to get out and walk through some solution, and put our spare shoes into same solution - to stop the spread of some disease. We passed only the occasional settlement - all very similar with branches for a ring fence, a small thatched hut or two, washing on the line, sometimes chickens and a dog, goats and cattle and donkeys wandering freely about, and sand everywhere. All the children we pass wave vigorously at us and smile. The literacy rate here is over 80%, so most children are attending school. Botswana does not have a problem with water supplies, but it is all very dry and brown.
Our arrival at camp in Maun was at sunset, so tents were put up in the dark. A bonus was having a tasty dinner of sausages,potato salad and coleslaw at the restaurant at the camp site. After showering, dinner and preparing our small day packs for the next day and night it was time for bed.
20th August - we were up at 6am to pack up our tents, sleeping bags and mats and small day bags. After breakfast two trucks came, and we loaded them up with our tents, stools, and cooking hear for 24 hours. Then it was a 1&1/2 hour drive to the Okavango Delta to the mokoro base site, down a very sandy track. Unloading the trucks, we were settled into a mokoro (type of canoe) for our 1 & 1/2 hour trip up the delta.
The photos on Facebook will show the mokoro trip. John and I along with packs, sleeping bags and bed roll were allocated a poler, and he set us up for our trip. It was a very peaceful way to travel up the Delta, gliding though the reeds. Amy and Jeromé did not have such a pleasant trip as their mokoro leaked, leaving them with wet bottoms. Along the way some of us saw a water snake, and Liz saw a small brown snake on a trip to the long drop.
Once we arrived on our island bush camp site, we put up our tents and had lunch. Siesta time followed, and at 4.30pm we were put into groups and went for a 1&1/2 hour walking tour with a poler guide.
John, our guide, pointed out the various plants and we were able to walk up very close (less than 100m) to a herd of zebra. There were a few birds to spot, and a couple of red lechwe. It was just dark when we returned to camp.
After our dinner of pasta and vegetables, cooked on the campfire, we had marshmallows toasted over the campfire. Then our polers entertained us with some songs in Botswanian. We had to respond, so the group of 7 Kiwis did ourselves proud with a rendition of Po Kari Kari Ana before Amy sang a short burst of the chorus of Lorde's Royals with Liz and Therese singing the fill-in bits. The Australians sang Waltzing Matilda, John said a Cautionary Tale (Ben) and Therese lead around of 10 green bottles. Then it was time for bed, with a warning to check for eyes if you did have to leave your tent during the night!
21st August. The night was filled with the sound of frogs. Many of us went for a morning walk at 7am to see the game at the waterhole. There were a lot of zebra. However it was not much of a walk, which was the reason Liz went on the walk, while John "slept in" and put down the tent. After breakfast we returned to the mainland in our mokoros, then back to camp in Maun. We upgraded to an ensuite twin cabin for under $40NZ, and enjoyed a refreshing shower and washed all our clothes. After lunch, Liz and Therese joined the truck to head back into Maun to get some supplies. We left at 2pm and returned at 5.30. John and Richard joined those remaining at camp playing volleyball and having a swim, a much better option.
On return Liz was on truck cleaning duty and Therese on dinner. She and her team produced ä really lovely meal of mashed potatoes and devilled sausages. After dinner we sat around and talked, then went to our cabin at 9pm.
Sunrise every day is at 6am and sunset at 6pm. The days start cool but heat up and become very hot during the day. It is probably in the high 20s every day, and this is winter! Sometimes there is a slight breeze, but never much humidity.
August 22nd - Another early start, 5.45am, bags packed, breakfast, and away from camp at 7.30am. We drove through the countryside, scrubby and sandy, and turned off onto a one lane sealed road. There is a lot of livestock wandering around, sometimes over the road - donkeys, and cattle and goats. Many little villages with rondels, kids playing in the dirt.
Not wearing a watch means we don't monitor the time. We reached the border and it took about an hour for everyone to get processed out of Botswana. Back on the truck, drove 100 m and off into Immigration for entry stamps into Namibia. There is a 1 hour time difference, though in real time it would be 2.15pm it is now 1.15. So we have a 30 minute drive to our camp site. Writing this on the way, as there is wifi available at the camp.
The sunset cruise on the Chobe River was an amazing way to see a lot of wildlife as they came to the river to drink. There were zebra, elephants, giraffe, warthogs, wildebeest, crocodiles and more, as well as many birds. It was a good way to get close to the animals, joining the many other water craft filled with tourists out doing the same thing.
On our return to camp we had a barbeque prepared by the camp staff - extremely well cooked steak (ie tough and dry) and tasty coleslaw, then it was time for bed.
19th August - In the morning we were up early 5.30 am, tents down, breakfast, then onto the truck and on the road before 7.30. John, Richard and Jeromé are in the group of truck packers, so with a full truck of 34 it is like solving a Tetris puzzle to get all the tents, packs and cooking gear fitting into the vehicle every morning.
So we drove for most of the day, about 650 km's including a stop between districts to get out and walk through some solution, and put our spare shoes into same solution - to stop the spread of some disease. We passed only the occasional settlement - all very similar with branches for a ring fence, a small thatched hut or two, washing on the line, sometimes chickens and a dog, goats and cattle and donkeys wandering freely about, and sand everywhere. All the children we pass wave vigorously at us and smile. The literacy rate here is over 80%, so most children are attending school. Botswana does not have a problem with water supplies, but it is all very dry and brown.
Our arrival at camp in Maun was at sunset, so tents were put up in the dark. A bonus was having a tasty dinner of sausages,potato salad and coleslaw at the restaurant at the camp site. After showering, dinner and preparing our small day packs for the next day and night it was time for bed.
20th August - we were up at 6am to pack up our tents, sleeping bags and mats and small day bags. After breakfast two trucks came, and we loaded them up with our tents, stools, and cooking hear for 24 hours. Then it was a 1&1/2 hour drive to the Okavango Delta to the mokoro base site, down a very sandy track. Unloading the trucks, we were settled into a mokoro (type of canoe) for our 1 & 1/2 hour trip up the delta.
The photos on Facebook will show the mokoro trip. John and I along with packs, sleeping bags and bed roll were allocated a poler, and he set us up for our trip. It was a very peaceful way to travel up the Delta, gliding though the reeds. Amy and Jeromé did not have such a pleasant trip as their mokoro leaked, leaving them with wet bottoms. Along the way some of us saw a water snake, and Liz saw a small brown snake on a trip to the long drop.
Once we arrived on our island bush camp site, we put up our tents and had lunch. Siesta time followed, and at 4.30pm we were put into groups and went for a 1&1/2 hour walking tour with a poler guide.
John, our guide, pointed out the various plants and we were able to walk up very close (less than 100m) to a herd of zebra. There were a few birds to spot, and a couple of red lechwe. It was just dark when we returned to camp.
After our dinner of pasta and vegetables, cooked on the campfire, we had marshmallows toasted over the campfire. Then our polers entertained us with some songs in Botswanian. We had to respond, so the group of 7 Kiwis did ourselves proud with a rendition of Po Kari Kari Ana before Amy sang a short burst of the chorus of Lorde's Royals with Liz and Therese singing the fill-in bits. The Australians sang Waltzing Matilda, John said a Cautionary Tale (Ben) and Therese lead around of 10 green bottles. Then it was time for bed, with a warning to check for eyes if you did have to leave your tent during the night!
21st August. The night was filled with the sound of frogs. Many of us went for a morning walk at 7am to see the game at the waterhole. There were a lot of zebra. However it was not much of a walk, which was the reason Liz went on the walk, while John "slept in" and put down the tent. After breakfast we returned to the mainland in our mokoros, then back to camp in Maun. We upgraded to an ensuite twin cabin for under $40NZ, and enjoyed a refreshing shower and washed all our clothes. After lunch, Liz and Therese joined the truck to head back into Maun to get some supplies. We left at 2pm and returned at 5.30. John and Richard joined those remaining at camp playing volleyball and having a swim, a much better option.
On return Liz was on truck cleaning duty and Therese on dinner. She and her team produced ä really lovely meal of mashed potatoes and devilled sausages. After dinner we sat around and talked, then went to our cabin at 9pm.
Sunrise every day is at 6am and sunset at 6pm. The days start cool but heat up and become very hot during the day. It is probably in the high 20s every day, and this is winter! Sometimes there is a slight breeze, but never much humidity.
August 22nd - Another early start, 5.45am, bags packed, breakfast, and away from camp at 7.30am. We drove through the countryside, scrubby and sandy, and turned off onto a one lane sealed road. There is a lot of livestock wandering around, sometimes over the road - donkeys, and cattle and goats. Many little villages with rondels, kids playing in the dirt.
Not wearing a watch means we don't monitor the time. We reached the border and it took about an hour for everyone to get processed out of Botswana. Back on the truck, drove 100 m and off into Immigration for entry stamps into Namibia. There is a 1 hour time difference, though in real time it would be 2.15pm it is now 1.15. So we have a 30 minute drive to our camp site. Writing this on the way, as there is wifi available at the camp.
Monday, August 18, 2014
August 18th
We were up early and packed ready to go. Breakfast from the truck, cereal and toast, then the truck was packed up and we departed. There are 30 campers, a driver, tour guide, a trainee guide and a guide from Northern Africa on holiday. So there are 34 on the truck. It is like a bus inside, very comfortable.
After an hour and a half we arrived at the border, around 10.30. Disembarked from the truck and lined up to go through customs to leave Zambia. Passports stamped, we walked down the the ferry for the river crossing. It was a very short trip, about 5 minutes, and we were in Botswana. At that point it is the junction of Namibia, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Zambia. We crossed the Chobe River at the Kazungula crossing.
Into the customs building to get our entry stamp for Botswana, then back in the truck for a short ride to the town nearest our camp, Kasane. Here we went to the Lido to get any provisions we needed, and walked around the other stores. Being a Sunday many stores were closed.
Arrived at our camp and set up the tents. It is a lovely spot beside the Chobe River. There is an electric fence along the river to keep out the hippos and elephants! Headed for the pool to have a dip, then sat in the shade for a while with a beer.
Liz was on cooking duty so from 5.30 she helped cooking the chicken and rice. Dinner was in the dark at 6.30, and then we sat around talking for a while before bed. There were a few hippos grazing just over the fence for while.
Sunrise is around 6am and sunset at around 6pm. Both happen quickly, there is no lingering twilight. There are quite a few lovely birds flying around, and we should see many more in Botswana.
Our group of travellers is quite a varied group, with quite a few oldies in it. So it makes for a good group to spend time with. This morning many of the tour went on a game drive, leaving at 5.45 am. We had done our great game grieves in Madwike, so were happy to sleep in, catch up on washing and chat to others for the morning. This afternoon we will go back to the local town to use the internet, and this afternoon we are all going on a boat cruise on the Chobe - there should be hundreds of elephants and hippos to see. Tonight will be a barbecue dinner.
At the shopping centre, just found free wifi. Will not have any for a few days now.
After an hour and a half we arrived at the border, around 10.30. Disembarked from the truck and lined up to go through customs to leave Zambia. Passports stamped, we walked down the the ferry for the river crossing. It was a very short trip, about 5 minutes, and we were in Botswana. At that point it is the junction of Namibia, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Zambia. We crossed the Chobe River at the Kazungula crossing.
Into the customs building to get our entry stamp for Botswana, then back in the truck for a short ride to the town nearest our camp, Kasane. Here we went to the Lido to get any provisions we needed, and walked around the other stores. Being a Sunday many stores were closed.
Arrived at our camp and set up the tents. It is a lovely spot beside the Chobe River. There is an electric fence along the river to keep out the hippos and elephants! Headed for the pool to have a dip, then sat in the shade for a while with a beer.
Liz was on cooking duty so from 5.30 she helped cooking the chicken and rice. Dinner was in the dark at 6.30, and then we sat around talking for a while before bed. There were a few hippos grazing just over the fence for while.
Sunrise is around 6am and sunset at around 6pm. Both happen quickly, there is no lingering twilight. There are quite a few lovely birds flying around, and we should see many more in Botswana.
Our group of travellers is quite a varied group, with quite a few oldies in it. So it makes for a good group to spend time with. This morning many of the tour went on a game drive, leaving at 5.45 am. We had done our great game grieves in Madwike, so were happy to sleep in, catch up on washing and chat to others for the morning. This afternoon we will go back to the local town to use the internet, and this afternoon we are all going on a boat cruise on the Chobe - there should be hundreds of elephants and hippos to see. Tonight will be a barbecue dinner.
At the shopping centre, just found free wifi. Will not have any for a few days now.
Saturday, August 16, 2014
August 16th Livingstone
We were all up early and at breakfast around 7am. Then we had to pack up and leave our "luxury" tent. Took our bags over to the Toucan truck to be stored for the day, and met Mark, our tour guide for the next three weeks. There will be a group of 30 on our trip, with 4 staff. From tonight we will be sleeping in basic tents!
Just before 9 we were picked up by our taxi to go to the nearby airstrip. There we all boarded a helicopter for a flight over Victoria Falls. It was an amazing sight, and we saw all the different channels the water had eroded out over the centuries.
So we are back at the Lodge, and will probably spend the rest or the day relaxing by the pool, catching up on emails, and getting ready to hit the road. We have a tour briefing at 5pm. Not sure how internet access will be for the next few days, but will try when possible to do a post.
Just before 9 we were picked up by our taxi to go to the nearby airstrip. There we all boarded a helicopter for a flight over Victoria Falls. It was an amazing sight, and we saw all the different channels the water had eroded out over the centuries.
So we are back at the Lodge, and will probably spend the rest or the day relaxing by the pool, catching up on emails, and getting ready to hit the road. We have a tour briefing at 5pm. Not sure how internet access will be for the next few days, but will try when possible to do a post.
August 15th
Had a great sleep in our tents - on stretcher beds, very comfortable. We met for breakfast and then at 9.30am we got two taxis to Victoria Falls, about 7 km's away. Paid our entry fees, then got a guide and went into the park.
We walked to the various parts of the Falls. It is a magnificent sight, with a lot of spray - the water falls down into a narrow gorge and spray splashes back up. The day was quite warm at about 26 degrees. We walked over the bridge separating Zambia from Zimbabwe and placed our feet in Zimbabwe.
We taxied back and had a late lunch, or rather each couple shared a burger and chips since the portions were so large. Then a siesta before a very brisk swim in the camp pool. It's fair to say it was quite cool, despite the hot sun.
Tomorrow we are all taking a helicopter flight over the falls.
At present the order of the day is having Sundowners (drinks) on the banks of the Zambesi in the late afternoon sun. Just what holidaying in Africa should be about.
August 14th - to Zambia
August 14th, 2014
We got the 8am hotel shuttle to the airport, which was not far away. Checked in for our international flight to Zambia, then went through customs and immigration and headed for the departure area. Amy and Jeromé joined us. The airport in J'burg is a lovely building, and there were a number of shops in the duty free area. We did not purchase anything, but enjoyed wandering around looking at everything. Our flight was only about 1.5 hours, and we were in Zambia. It was hot outside for us - 26 degrees - but it is winter time here! We walked into the terminal, a beautiful new building which is not quite finished. Paid US$50 each for our visa, and went to collect our bags. Fortunately we were among the first to disembark the plane, as the queue was long behind us and it took quite ä while to process each person.
A short taxi ride to the Waterfront where we are staying, and we checked in and were shown our tents. They are permanent tents, and high enough to stand up in. There is an electric fan and a light in each one. Beds - a little too short, and certainly too short for Jeromé - made up with sheets. These tents are our home for the next three nights.
There were monkeys running around the camp site.
We settled in and then all 6 of us went to the main camp area to find out about activities for the time we are here. There certainly are plenty of options - rafting, Bungy jumping, helicopter rides, microlight flights, and much more.
We booked a sunset dinner cruise on the Zambezi River. So at 4.15 we embarked for a meander down up the river to see the wildlife. We saw hippos, crocodiles, giraffes, and lots of birds. The dinner was basic - sausage, chicken, coleslaw, salad and a bun. however the atmosphere was really lovely - it was calm and quiet, with lovely scenery around us. There was a beautiful sunset.
The cruise finished just after 6.30. We returned to our tents about 7pm, and that is where I am now sitting to write this.
We got the 8am hotel shuttle to the airport, which was not far away. Checked in for our international flight to Zambia, then went through customs and immigration and headed for the departure area. Amy and Jeromé joined us. The airport in J'burg is a lovely building, and there were a number of shops in the duty free area. We did not purchase anything, but enjoyed wandering around looking at everything. Our flight was only about 1.5 hours, and we were in Zambia. It was hot outside for us - 26 degrees - but it is winter time here! We walked into the terminal, a beautiful new building which is not quite finished. Paid US$50 each for our visa, and went to collect our bags. Fortunately we were among the first to disembark the plane, as the queue was long behind us and it took quite ä while to process each person.
A short taxi ride to the Waterfront where we are staying, and we checked in and were shown our tents. They are permanent tents, and high enough to stand up in. There is an electric fan and a light in each one. Beds - a little too short, and certainly too short for Jeromé - made up with sheets. These tents are our home for the next three nights.
There were monkeys running around the camp site.
We settled in and then all 6 of us went to the main camp area to find out about activities for the time we are here. There certainly are plenty of options - rafting, Bungy jumping, helicopter rides, microlight flights, and much more.
We booked a sunset dinner cruise on the Zambezi River. So at 4.15 we embarked for a meander down up the river to see the wildlife. We saw hippos, crocodiles, giraffes, and lots of birds. The dinner was basic - sausage, chicken, coleslaw, salad and a bun. however the atmosphere was really lovely - it was calm and quiet, with lovely scenery around us. There was a beautiful sunset.
The cruise finished just after 6.30. We returned to our tents about 7pm, and that is where I am now sitting to write this.
Thursday, August 14, 2014
August 12th evening game drive - we went to the big dam waterhole just before dusk. A wide range of animals came along. There were many elephants and giraffes. It was fascinating watching their behaviour. Two of the elephants we're play fighting. The setting was spectacular. When the giraffes left their long necks were visible above the scrub for a long time.
We had two other couples on our truck; Terry and Jill from Australia and Charlote and Paul from Durban. Terry and Jill are originally from South Africa, and lived in Christchurch for quite a few years before retiring to Australia. Charlotte is a district court magistrate. They were both lovely couples, and we had a great time with them.
Another beautiful three course dinner outside, then we retired to our rooms at 9pm.
August 13th: After a good night's sleep we got up at 6 in order to have everything ready to leave after breakfast. When we arrived for coffee at the lodge, Tyrone said he wanted to leave as soon as possible as there had been a kill nearby for us to go to. I had heard an animal screaming around 6 am for about 15 mins, and this was the victim of an attack by two hyenas.
So we departed as soon as everyone was there, and soon reached the scene. There were two hyenas ripping apart a wildebeest. It was something that many seasoned game safari visitors seldom see. We were parked within metres of the site, and could hear the hyenas pulling at the dead animal and could smell the blood. We got some amazing photos, many not suitable to display without a warning.
A lone grey hyena -a beautiful looking animal - circled cautiously, but did not come in to challenge the other hyenas. The sky was a lovely clear blue, and the day was warming up. Some vultures started circling overhead.
We left the scene to allow other trucks to come up to view. There is a rule of a maximum of three trucks at a viewing at any one time, to give people a better experience and also to leave some space for the animals.
Tyrone then said he had something else to show us, so we drove quickly to the northern edge of the park and along the fence line until we came to where a pack of wild dogs was resting - probably after having had a feast - lying in groups in the sun. There were 10 in number, and Tyrone explained how good they are at running down and killing prey. They can devour 10kgs of meat in 10 mins.
We headed back towards the lodge, stopping for a coffee break along the way. On our ride we saw so many animals - zebra, rhino, wildebeest, warthog, impala, kudu, elephant, and buffalo. There were also many different bird species. For our previous two days drives it had been windy, so many of the animals and birds would have been hunkered down. Today it was so calm and still and they were all out.
After breakfast we finished packing and left the lodge by road transfer around 11.30. We had had three amazing days at Impodimo Lodge and had seen so many different animals and birds. Tyrone, our guide, had explained about so many of the animals and birds, and their various habitats and shared his love of the animals with us.
Now in Johannesburg about to head out to meet Amy and Jeromé, Kashi and Vivita and have dinner.
We had two other couples on our truck; Terry and Jill from Australia and Charlote and Paul from Durban. Terry and Jill are originally from South Africa, and lived in Christchurch for quite a few years before retiring to Australia. Charlotte is a district court magistrate. They were both lovely couples, and we had a great time with them.
Another beautiful three course dinner outside, then we retired to our rooms at 9pm.
August 13th: After a good night's sleep we got up at 6 in order to have everything ready to leave after breakfast. When we arrived for coffee at the lodge, Tyrone said he wanted to leave as soon as possible as there had been a kill nearby for us to go to. I had heard an animal screaming around 6 am for about 15 mins, and this was the victim of an attack by two hyenas.
So we departed as soon as everyone was there, and soon reached the scene. There were two hyenas ripping apart a wildebeest. It was something that many seasoned game safari visitors seldom see. We were parked within metres of the site, and could hear the hyenas pulling at the dead animal and could smell the blood. We got some amazing photos, many not suitable to display without a warning.
A lone grey hyena -a beautiful looking animal - circled cautiously, but did not come in to challenge the other hyenas. The sky was a lovely clear blue, and the day was warming up. Some vultures started circling overhead.
We left the scene to allow other trucks to come up to view. There is a rule of a maximum of three trucks at a viewing at any one time, to give people a better experience and also to leave some space for the animals.
Tyrone then said he had something else to show us, so we drove quickly to the northern edge of the park and along the fence line until we came to where a pack of wild dogs was resting - probably after having had a feast - lying in groups in the sun. There were 10 in number, and Tyrone explained how good they are at running down and killing prey. They can devour 10kgs of meat in 10 mins.
We headed back towards the lodge, stopping for a coffee break along the way. On our ride we saw so many animals - zebra, rhino, wildebeest, warthog, impala, kudu, elephant, and buffalo. There were also many different bird species. For our previous two days drives it had been windy, so many of the animals and birds would have been hunkered down. Today it was so calm and still and they were all out.
After breakfast we finished packing and left the lodge by road transfer around 11.30. We had had three amazing days at Impodimo Lodge and had seen so many different animals and birds. Tyrone, our guide, had explained about so many of the animals and birds, and their various habitats and shared his love of the animals with us.
Now in Johannesburg about to head out to meet Amy and Jeromé, Kashi and Vivita and have dinner.
Wednesday, August 13, 2014
12 August 2014
Well we have just returned from another of the morning game drives here at the Impodimo Lodge. The lodge is in the Madikwe Game Reserve about 4 hours north west of Johannesburg by car. There are about 20 or more lodges in the 75,000 hectare reserve, all privately run. This lodge has rooms for about 8 couples or groups. The bed has a huge netting canopy above it with all the mod cons, even an outside shower. The order of the day is that we go out at about 7am for a 3 or 4 hour drive with the driver and his local tracker. Home for breakfast at about 11 am, then siesta until 3 when we have high tea at the pool, followed by an evening drive and dinner at about 8pm. All the meals are beautifully cooked. So far we have see lots of beautiful animal up close - confirming everything in the films and documentaries about Africa that we have seen.
The weather is cool but a little windy, which tends to keep the animals hunkered down out of the wind.
Tomorrow we head back to Johannesburg where we meet up with Amy and Jeromé. The following day we head up to Livingstone to spend 3 days before we join our 3 week truck tour South to Capetown.
The weather is cool but a little windy, which tends to keep the animals hunkered down out of the wind.
Tomorrow we head back to Johannesburg where we meet up with Amy and Jeromé. The following day we head up to Livingstone to spend 3 days before we join our 3 week truck tour South to Capetown.
Tuesday, August 12, 2014
Monday, 11th August - Impodimo Lodge, Madikwe Game Reserve.
Our trip to Madikwe Game Reserve yesterday took about 4.5 hours. We had a lovely lady, Martie, who drove us and explained things along the way. Went through some townships with very small iron huts, and others with more solid and substantial homes. Dry dirt everywhere, a few places had hens and goats, not many had gardens. There were many folk out walking along the sides of the road, or waiting on a bus. It was a pleasant temperature for us of 20 degrees, though for our driver it was cold.
On arrival at the park, around 2pm, Martie drove us the long way so we could see some of the wildlife. There were elephants crossing the road, and some zebra. We arrived at Impodimo Lodge at 2.30, and were shown to our chalet. Just outside our room were elephants bathing in the waterhole! It is an unfenced lodge, so we are not allowed to go to or leave our chalets at night without an armed guard, in case we encounter any wildlife along the way.
At 3pm we met at the pool for High Tea. Then we went on a game drive, with Tyrone our guide and Sam our tracker. Travelled in an open land rover, with a couple from Australia, so there were 6 guests and two staff in total. We saw lions resting after a kill - parked just a few metres away to sit and watch them! There were zebra, jackals, a large buffalo, hyena, steenbuck, warthogs, impala, and many other species of wildlife. We stopped and had a wine and nibbles in a clearing along the way. As it got dark we saw a few nocturnal animals. The temperature dropped the sun disappeared but we had hats, jackets and a rug to keep us warm.
Upon returning to the Lodge around 8pm we gathered in a courtyard for dinner. It was lovely and cosy, with open fires in a bush-like setting. We had a delicious three course meal, and then it was time to be escorted back to our room.
We are in a lovely chalet, which had a small fire burning and hot-water bottles in the bed. There is a bath with a view over the waterhole, and both an inside and outside shower. It was very quiet during the night, though I did hear something nibbling/gnawing - discovered in the morning that there had been a mouse in my bag eating a muesli bar. There were others out on the seat it could have had without going through my bag!
A wake up call came at 6.30 so we got up and dressed and met at the lodge at 6.45 for a hot drink and muffin, before heading back to the vehicle for the early morning game drive. Sam had placed a hot water bottle and rug on our seats, so it was lovely and cosy.
The first big animal we saw was a white rhinoceros. We were able to get within a few metres of this great beast, which continued peacefully grazing alongside of us. So we spent quite a while watching it. It was an amazing experience. The other animals we saw close up included giraffes and elephants. There was a very young elephant which was playing with its mother - the mother was lying down and the baby was climbing on her.
We also spotted quite a number of birds, some beautifully coloured ones and others like quail and guinea-fowl. A drongo also showed itself.
On return to the Lodge it was time for brunch. We sat poolside for a continental breakfast, and enjoyed the atmosphere. There is a bit of wind today, and it is cloudy, so a bit cooler than yesterday.
This blog is being composed while sitting on the deck overlooking the waterhole. Have watched an elephant bathing, and some impala come by. Quite a number of birds are able to be seen and heard.
It is the dry season so very dusty and brown everywhere. Makes for easier animal spotting than in the summer when the grass and trees are green.
We meet again at 3 for High Tea before heading out again for our dusk game drive. We have requested Tyrone to make sure we see a black rhino and a hippo tonight!
On arrival at the park, around 2pm, Martie drove us the long way so we could see some of the wildlife. There were elephants crossing the road, and some zebra. We arrived at Impodimo Lodge at 2.30, and were shown to our chalet. Just outside our room were elephants bathing in the waterhole! It is an unfenced lodge, so we are not allowed to go to or leave our chalets at night without an armed guard, in case we encounter any wildlife along the way.
At 3pm we met at the pool for High Tea. Then we went on a game drive, with Tyrone our guide and Sam our tracker. Travelled in an open land rover, with a couple from Australia, so there were 6 guests and two staff in total. We saw lions resting after a kill - parked just a few metres away to sit and watch them! There were zebra, jackals, a large buffalo, hyena, steenbuck, warthogs, impala, and many other species of wildlife. We stopped and had a wine and nibbles in a clearing along the way. As it got dark we saw a few nocturnal animals. The temperature dropped the sun disappeared but we had hats, jackets and a rug to keep us warm.
Upon returning to the Lodge around 8pm we gathered in a courtyard for dinner. It was lovely and cosy, with open fires in a bush-like setting. We had a delicious three course meal, and then it was time to be escorted back to our room.
We are in a lovely chalet, which had a small fire burning and hot-water bottles in the bed. There is a bath with a view over the waterhole, and both an inside and outside shower. It was very quiet during the night, though I did hear something nibbling/gnawing - discovered in the morning that there had been a mouse in my bag eating a muesli bar. There were others out on the seat it could have had without going through my bag!
A wake up call came at 6.30 so we got up and dressed and met at the lodge at 6.45 for a hot drink and muffin, before heading back to the vehicle for the early morning game drive. Sam had placed a hot water bottle and rug on our seats, so it was lovely and cosy.
The first big animal we saw was a white rhinoceros. We were able to get within a few metres of this great beast, which continued peacefully grazing alongside of us. So we spent quite a while watching it. It was an amazing experience. The other animals we saw close up included giraffes and elephants. There was a very young elephant which was playing with its mother - the mother was lying down and the baby was climbing on her.
We also spotted quite a number of birds, some beautifully coloured ones and others like quail and guinea-fowl. A drongo also showed itself.
On return to the Lodge it was time for brunch. We sat poolside for a continental breakfast, and enjoyed the atmosphere. There is a bit of wind today, and it is cloudy, so a bit cooler than yesterday.
This blog is being composed while sitting on the deck overlooking the waterhole. Have watched an elephant bathing, and some impala come by. Quite a number of birds are able to be seen and heard.
It is the dry season so very dusty and brown everywhere. Makes for easier animal spotting than in the summer when the grass and trees are green.
We meet again at 3 for High Tea before heading out again for our dusk game drive. We have requested Tyrone to make sure we see a black rhino and a hippo tonight!
Monday, August 11, 2014
Off to Africa
We had a long trip, leaving a wet, cold Wellington at 6.45 am for Sydney. The flight was late landing due to fog in Sydney, and we spent time circling in a holding pattern, desperately hoping we did not have to go to Brisbane to refuel as that would mean problems with our connecting flight. However the pilot landed us safely and we transferred to our next flight which was late anyway. Once on board we were told we would be waiting for up to an hour for people on other delayed flights! So finally departed Sydney just over two hours late.
It was a smooth 14&1/2 hour flight to Johannesburg. We landed around 6.40pm and cleared immigration and customs - no forms to fill out or anything, just a passport stamp. Easy directions to our hotel shuttle and we were driven about 5 mins to the hotel. So did not see much of the area in the dark.
Lovely hotel, and once showered and refreshed we went down to dinner. Very nice buffet meal. After that it was time to try and sleep. Had a few hours of sleep - 10 hours behind NZ so we would normally have been awake at the time we were trying to sleep. It was/is certainly nice and quiet, even though we can see the airport runway from our window.
We are looking out to see if we can see Amy and Jeromé arriving as they are due to arrive now.
Have just had a call to say our shuttle is waiting to take us to the game park, so are setting off on our adventure!
It was a smooth 14&1/2 hour flight to Johannesburg. We landed around 6.40pm and cleared immigration and customs - no forms to fill out or anything, just a passport stamp. Easy directions to our hotel shuttle and we were driven about 5 mins to the hotel. So did not see much of the area in the dark.
Lovely hotel, and once showered and refreshed we went down to dinner. Very nice buffet meal. After that it was time to try and sleep. Had a few hours of sleep - 10 hours behind NZ so we would normally have been awake at the time we were trying to sleep. It was/is certainly nice and quiet, even though we can see the airport runway from our window.
We are looking out to see if we can see Amy and Jeromé arriving as they are due to arrive now.
Have just had a call to say our shuttle is waiting to take us to the game park, so are setting off on our adventure!
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