Hotel breakfast was at 6.30am. It was laid out waiting for us on individual plates - slices of cheese and ham, tomato, and fresh bread as well as coffee or tea. The Tour organisers came to the rescue with some muesli. Set off just before seven am with Jos, Manon and Graeme. It was 17 degrees. From the hotel it was 1k through town, then up for 20 ks to the summit of the hill. These were the Carparthian Mountains. It was through forested land in the lower slopes and then through open grassland. We climbed up 800 metres, and had the most amazing views over the beautiful rolling countryside at the top. It was pleasantly cool, often into a headwind Passed the town of Carasova near the top, built into a hollow among slopes of olive trees and forest. There were hobbled cows grazing alongside the road.
Just past the summit was the town of Anima, a sprawling town which was once a coal mining town. The collery had closed two years ago and the town was looking a bit worse for wear. While it looked pretty from afar, it would be a bleak place in the winter. The roads were all very good, smooth tar sealed two lanes. Offroads to the side were all just dirt and gravel. Locals were all very friendly, giving us a wave as we biked past. In Anina the rubbish man said "Bon voyage" and another road worker "Have a good trip". One man stood at a crossroad and pointed out the way for those who were checking maps. Many older locals in all the villages sat in the shade outside their houses, women dressed in heavy skirts and socks with a scarf on. Lunch stop was at 10am in a forest clearing just before Bozovici, after 45ks. We had lots of fresh fruit with lunch, delicious sliced pineapple, watermelon, nectarines and bananas. Well replenished we set off again. From lunch to Bozovici the road became increasingly rough and even though it was downhill it was hard to maintain a decent speed. There were a number of roadwork sites along the way - and plenty of future work for them!
We stopped in Bozovici for a cold drink. Since leaving the forested area and coming into the open grassland the temperature had risen to about 34degrees. There was nothing much redeeming about Bozovici, apartment blocks which would be condemned at home were still fully occupied. Dirt side roads were well used, making the air dusty. Lots of cars driving through, and dogs on the road, young men scooting around on motorbikes. We knew other shop patrons were talking about us as they said "Paris" - we have Paris to Istanbul signs on our bikes. From here on the landscape became increasingly pretty, with mountains in the background. There were lots of people working in the fields taking and scything and turning hay, most waved at us. Dozens and dozens of handmade haystacks, people carting hay by horse and cart, often with the family all sitting on top.
At 80ks we started another climb over a low pass of about 200metres - again on a very rough surface. There was a snack stop at 82ks where we could refill drink bottles and again have some tasty fresh fruit. It was getting warmer, heading to 36 degrees. We drink at least 3-4 sports bottles of water and electrolyte solution during the day, and need to keep replenishing fluid levels in the evening - hence the 'need' to have a beer at our camp or hotel. Plenty of liquids and sunscreen are important. We also stop every 10ks or so just to stretch legs. At the one road town of Iablanita we stopped for an ice cream. A young boy went past on horse and cart collecting metal, and some gypsies walked along calling out to see if anyone wanted to buy pots and pans. From there we turned onto a side road- at one stage would have been a lovely concrete road, but was a very rough broken surface, partially overgrown with vegetation at the sides. It was uphill for 3 ks then downhill, surprisingly still used by local cars and heavy trucks. Tiger country for pushbikes!
At its end we went onto the E70 which was a newly sealed road. New roads here have no verge, just a sharp edge and the bitumen can be up to a foot thick. So care is required. Fortunately where we joined the road there were roadwork and so traffic as restricted to one lane. This allowed us to get through and not have any traffic passing us for a few kilometers by which time we were on a wider piece of road. After 7.5 ks we turned onto the road to Baile Herculane. (Baths of Hercules) and soon could smell the sulphur in the air! Alexander the Great is said to have visited here.
It was 5ks to the hotel, at the end of the town which is situated between two very high, steep bluffs with a river running along the bottom. There are many thermal and "spa" pools, and buildings which would suggest that it was a trendy place to visit in its heyday, but now they stand empty and derelict.
The people we seeks our travels now are not of Hungarian descent, as they were in Timisoara, but of Romanish descent. Much darker skinned and more "solid" build. The Romanian language is a Romance language, so easier than Hungarian to try and decipher. Arrived at the hotel and showered. After a rest we met with a group of others and headed to a local restaurant. Had a delicious meal with Maureen and Glen, Graeme and Manon. Liz had steak and John had pork schnitzel. We were sitting beside the river. On the opposite bank a man came down in his underwear to have a bath in the warm water flowing into his man-made "pool" from a pipe! Probably his daily ritual.
Returned to the hotel, saw a firefly buzzing through the forest, its "tail-light" flicking every 3 seconds. There were some wild dogs around but they scampered when someone shouted at them. Off to bed for a good nights rest. It was a long ride today at 125 ks with lots of hills, 6 hours 25, average 19.6. We had a really pleasant day, riding not too tough and scenery very pleasant.
Just past the summit was the town of Anima, a sprawling town which was once a coal mining town. The collery had closed two years ago and the town was looking a bit worse for wear. While it looked pretty from afar, it would be a bleak place in the winter. The roads were all very good, smooth tar sealed two lanes. Offroads to the side were all just dirt and gravel. Locals were all very friendly, giving us a wave as we biked past. In Anina the rubbish man said "Bon voyage" and another road worker "Have a good trip". One man stood at a crossroad and pointed out the way for those who were checking maps. Many older locals in all the villages sat in the shade outside their houses, women dressed in heavy skirts and socks with a scarf on. Lunch stop was at 10am in a forest clearing just before Bozovici, after 45ks. We had lots of fresh fruit with lunch, delicious sliced pineapple, watermelon, nectarines and bananas. Well replenished we set off again. From lunch to Bozovici the road became increasingly rough and even though it was downhill it was hard to maintain a decent speed. There were a number of roadwork sites along the way - and plenty of future work for them!
We stopped in Bozovici for a cold drink. Since leaving the forested area and coming into the open grassland the temperature had risen to about 34degrees. There was nothing much redeeming about Bozovici, apartment blocks which would be condemned at home were still fully occupied. Dirt side roads were well used, making the air dusty. Lots of cars driving through, and dogs on the road, young men scooting around on motorbikes. We knew other shop patrons were talking about us as they said "Paris" - we have Paris to Istanbul signs on our bikes. From here on the landscape became increasingly pretty, with mountains in the background. There were lots of people working in the fields taking and scything and turning hay, most waved at us. Dozens and dozens of handmade haystacks, people carting hay by horse and cart, often with the family all sitting on top.
At 80ks we started another climb over a low pass of about 200metres - again on a very rough surface. There was a snack stop at 82ks where we could refill drink bottles and again have some tasty fresh fruit. It was getting warmer, heading to 36 degrees. We drink at least 3-4 sports bottles of water and electrolyte solution during the day, and need to keep replenishing fluid levels in the evening - hence the 'need' to have a beer at our camp or hotel. Plenty of liquids and sunscreen are important. We also stop every 10ks or so just to stretch legs. At the one road town of Iablanita we stopped for an ice cream. A young boy went past on horse and cart collecting metal, and some gypsies walked along calling out to see if anyone wanted to buy pots and pans. From there we turned onto a side road- at one stage would have been a lovely concrete road, but was a very rough broken surface, partially overgrown with vegetation at the sides. It was uphill for 3 ks then downhill, surprisingly still used by local cars and heavy trucks. Tiger country for pushbikes!
At its end we went onto the E70 which was a newly sealed road. New roads here have no verge, just a sharp edge and the bitumen can be up to a foot thick. So care is required. Fortunately where we joined the road there were roadwork and so traffic as restricted to one lane. This allowed us to get through and not have any traffic passing us for a few kilometers by which time we were on a wider piece of road. After 7.5 ks we turned onto the road to Baile Herculane. (Baths of Hercules) and soon could smell the sulphur in the air! Alexander the Great is said to have visited here.
It was 5ks to the hotel, at the end of the town which is situated between two very high, steep bluffs with a river running along the bottom. There are many thermal and "spa" pools, and buildings which would suggest that it was a trendy place to visit in its heyday, but now they stand empty and derelict.
The people we seeks our travels now are not of Hungarian descent, as they were in Timisoara, but of Romanish descent. Much darker skinned and more "solid" build. The Romanian language is a Romance language, so easier than Hungarian to try and decipher. Arrived at the hotel and showered. After a rest we met with a group of others and headed to a local restaurant. Had a delicious meal with Maureen and Glen, Graeme and Manon. Liz had steak and John had pork schnitzel. We were sitting beside the river. On the opposite bank a man came down in his underwear to have a bath in the warm water flowing into his man-made "pool" from a pipe! Probably his daily ritual.
Returned to the hotel, saw a firefly buzzing through the forest, its "tail-light" flicking every 3 seconds. There were some wild dogs around but they scampered when someone shouted at them. Off to bed for a good nights rest. It was a long ride today at 125 ks with lots of hills, 6 hours 25, average 19.6. We had a really pleasant day, riding not too tough and scenery very pleasant.
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