Monday, June 30, 2008

Szeged to Timosoira. 30 July.

Sun up was 4am. A relatively quiet night except for people walking past the tents talking and sirens blaring at 4.30. We found a critter (gopher, sand snake?) had burrowed under our tent from one side to the other during the night and left a pile of sand! Everyone was up early, packed and ready for breakfast. Set off at 7.30 when it was already 25 degrees to ride through the city to the outskirts, where we waited in a large group for the ferry to carry us across the Tisza River. It was a five minute crossing. Then it was 29kms along a very straight tarsealed one land road which resembled a goat track! Along the road there were many fields of sunflowers, some crop fields and lots of scruffy scrub areas. It was all very flat all day. The soil was very sandy. We headed to the town of Mako, our last Hungarian town. Through the town and another 11 kms on we reached the border with Romania. Empty sentry boxes on the Hungarian side but we had to produce passports for entry into Romania. Liz showed her European passport and was waved through. John had his NZ passport taken off and checked and stamped before he could proceed.

So we were in Romania. Immediately there were differences visible, with poorer roads and more dilapidated buildings. There were many abandoned commune buildings, but evidence also of many lovely new homes and others being done up. All day we were on long straight roads, by 11am it was 36 degrees. Only passed through Cenad at the border where we changed our money into Lei, Sannicolau Mare, Lovrin, Sandra (where we stopped for an icecream, served in a little glass dish), and Biled before reaching Timisoara. We were on Highway 6 which was obviously fairly new (EU money) but all the side roads in towns and country were dirt tracks. There were no footpaths, and unmown grass outside houses. Not a lot of livestock - the odd tethered cow, mangy looking flock of sheep, a flock of geese, and a few hens. Many houses had large barking dogs, fortunately behind high fences. We had been warned about the dogs in Romania, and had ammunition in the form of sticks, stones and hard bits to throw if necessary, tucked into the legs of our cycling shorts. People were very friendly, and many waved to us. The highway was very busy so we kept hard to the right and travelled in single file. Carl and Rita took a tumble on their tandem, as did Philip on his bike. There was usually a big drop off at the side of the road off the tarseal into dirt, so we had to take care. At the border we changed time zones, our first change since Paris, so clocks went forward an hour. Many new appartment blocks are being built on the city outskirts, as well as some areas of new standalone houses which are obviously very
expensive.

We rode the last 5ks into town in small groups, and arrived at the Hotel Timisoara about 5pm local time, hot and tired after 8 & 1/2 hours on the road. Lovely to have a shower and freshen up. At 6pm we heard church bells ringing out "Immaculate Mother" tune. We are in a
lovely hotel, with Internet wifi available downstairs. Walked through the local streets, very impressed with the mostly 3story buildings, which had some lovely architecture. There are lovely gardens and squares in the centre of the city and it is a very Westernised city. Many people speak English. First impressions are of a city which is fast becoming a modern city. There are a lot of young people, the girls are very beautiful. Still some less well-off people around, but most are very well dressed. There is a Masserati and a few other new BMWs and Audis in the hotel carpark - but there are also still many old Skodas and Ladas on the roads though! Went for dinner at a nearby restaurant and had a lovely meal, with Jos, Manon, Graeme, Garis, Allan, Nicole, Dan, Carl and Rita. Sat outside in the mild evening air beside the gardens in the centre of town.

Travelled 120ks on 5hours 40 mins of cycling, ave. 21.2.

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