Had a lovely sleep in our little rounduvel. The fire had been lit at 4pm and it warmed up the room beautifully. It had a thatched roof, and was very cosy.
Left the Sani Pass Mountain Lodge at 8am, and headed through Lesotho. We were on the Roof of Africa Route, and we were at an elevation of over 2500 m for most of the day, peaking at 3283 m. Most was on gravel, and much was very rough, so it was a slow drive. From our departure at 8.22 we travelled 18kms by 9.15. There were major road works underway, and for about 100 km's there was a new 2 lane highway being constructed parallel to the old road we were on. It was obviously funded and supervised by the Chinese, as there were many red Chinese trucks carrying gravel, and Chinese supervisors on site along the route. We were held up for nearly half an hour at the site of a blast which had gone wrong yesterday. A couple who arrived at the Sani Pass Mountain Lodge said they waited for about three hours the previous day as the demolition engineer had used too much dynamite and brought down huge boulders over the road.
So it was slow driving along the route for most of the day. There were many settlements at the lower levels, but not higher up. The land had all been terraced, it was extremely dry. Cattle and sheep were often being watched over by a shepherd. They usually wore the traditional garb of woollen hat, heavy blanket and gumboots. The people of Lesotho are very poor. There were few vehicles anywhere, and most lived many miles from any significant settlement.
Unfortunately the air was not very clear, due to dust and the practice of burning crop land - so the stunning Drakensburg Mountains were not clearly visible.
Around midday we started dropping our elevation, and dropped 1000m in 8 minutes.
We did not stop anywhere in Lesotho, but continued to the Caledonspoort border post, where we left Lesotho and crossed back into South Africa. Very quick to get through both border posts, no queues. It was back to better roads again in South Africa. We had an afternoon tea stop for a break - no need for lunch after our cooked breakfast, and there had also not been anywhere to stop - the afternoon tea cafe was an interesting one; we sat in the garden of what once would have been a grand house, but was now rather run down.
Our destination for the night was Ladybrand, where we stayed at the Top House B&B. His. Was once the home of a very noted citizen, and was the Top house in the town. Very spacious and lovely old rooms, comfy bed. We walked out to one of the eating houses In town for dinner; after a long wait we were served very salty chips and baby chicken, being a whole baby chicken which was very tender but very salty also.
A lovely cooked breakfast was served at 7.30 then we were back on the road. At the start we drove on a gravel road, then on the N1, and travelled 680kms. We arrived at the Cape Karoo Guesthouse in Beaufort West around 4pm. It is a lovely guest house, the rooms are beautifully appointed, and we are having dinner and breakfast here. It is 34 degrees, and a little windy outside.
Tomorrow we head towards Cape Town, to prepare for our flights back to New Zealand!
Thursday, September 18, 2014
Tuesday, September 16, 2014
Sani Pass - The roof of Africa - September 15th
Sunday 14th - We all (Charles, Leslie, Richard, Therese, John and Liz) headed for Karkloof to the Karkloof Canopy Tour site. Another fine, sunny African day - everything is very dry and brown and they are desperately awaiting spring rains.
After a safety briefing, we were harnessed up and safety helmets and strong leather gloves on, then onto a ute for a short drive up into the native forest to the first platform.
So we were off on the high wires! Hooked up onto the wires, sent off zip lining. The wires were of various lengths; there were 8 sections ranging from 40 to 186 metres in length, and some were very high above the trees and crevices. A great exhilarating time was had by all. Certainly got the adrenaline flowing.
Two hours later we were all grounded. Headed to the Karkloof Falls, but due to the lack of water they were not very spectacular. Into town to a craft shop, the to Curries Post to a restaurant, Terbodore, for lunch. We were joined by Leslie's parents, a lovely couple who had just celebrated 60 years of marriage.
The rest of the afternoon was spent visiting craft and tourist shops on the Midland's Meander route, they back to the farm for a relax on the verandah as the sun set. Certainly a lovely view and very peaceful.
On Monday we left the farm just after 8am, heading to Underberg, where we stopped for morning tea at The Lemon Tree, where we had stopped on Friday - there are few places to stop and this one was lovely. We were welcomed back by the owners who remembered us from a few days ago, and congratulated us on "our" All Blacks win. The temperature was in the low 30s. At 11.30 we set off up the Sani Pass, with John driving. While it was only 33kms from Underberg, it took 2&1/2 hours. We stopped for photos and to look at the view often, but it was also a slow road. We hit the gravel 19kms from the top, and then the speed was 5 minutes per kilometre - the reason why we hired a 4x4 wheel drive. The South African border post was 8 kilometres from the top, and we checked out of South Africa there. Then the real climb began, and finally we reached the top at 2874 metres. The Lesotho border check post was right at the top, so once stamped into Lesotho we drove the 500 metres to the Sani Mountain Lodge, where we are staying the night. Our rooms are in lovely roundvels; someone will come in and light the fire at 5pm, the generator power goes off at 10pm. It is warm so the water pipes should not freeze tonight.
Dinner is at seven, so we have time to relax and look at the view. Breakfast is between 7.30 and 9.30, then we will drive through Lesotho and back into South Africa, heading to Cape Town, from where we fly out on Friday morning (our time). We have done about 3000kms in the rental vehicle so far.
After a safety briefing, we were harnessed up and safety helmets and strong leather gloves on, then onto a ute for a short drive up into the native forest to the first platform.
So we were off on the high wires! Hooked up onto the wires, sent off zip lining. The wires were of various lengths; there were 8 sections ranging from 40 to 186 metres in length, and some were very high above the trees and crevices. A great exhilarating time was had by all. Certainly got the adrenaline flowing.
Two hours later we were all grounded. Headed to the Karkloof Falls, but due to the lack of water they were not very spectacular. Into town to a craft shop, the to Curries Post to a restaurant, Terbodore, for lunch. We were joined by Leslie's parents, a lovely couple who had just celebrated 60 years of marriage.
The rest of the afternoon was spent visiting craft and tourist shops on the Midland's Meander route, they back to the farm for a relax on the verandah as the sun set. Certainly a lovely view and very peaceful.
On Monday we left the farm just after 8am, heading to Underberg, where we stopped for morning tea at The Lemon Tree, where we had stopped on Friday - there are few places to stop and this one was lovely. We were welcomed back by the owners who remembered us from a few days ago, and congratulated us on "our" All Blacks win. The temperature was in the low 30s. At 11.30 we set off up the Sani Pass, with John driving. While it was only 33kms from Underberg, it took 2&1/2 hours. We stopped for photos and to look at the view often, but it was also a slow road. We hit the gravel 19kms from the top, and then the speed was 5 minutes per kilometre - the reason why we hired a 4x4 wheel drive. The South African border post was 8 kilometres from the top, and we checked out of South Africa there. Then the real climb began, and finally we reached the top at 2874 metres. The Lesotho border check post was right at the top, so once stamped into Lesotho we drove the 500 metres to the Sani Mountain Lodge, where we are staying the night. Our rooms are in lovely roundvels; someone will come in and light the fire at 5pm, the generator power goes off at 10pm. It is warm so the water pipes should not freeze tonight.
Dinner is at seven, so we have time to relax and look at the view. Breakfast is between 7.30 and 9.30, then we will drive through Lesotho and back into South Africa, heading to Cape Town, from where we fly out on Friday morning (our time). We have done about 3000kms in the rental vehicle so far.
Sunday, September 14, 2014
September 13th
September 10th. In the afternoon we went to Knysna to wander around the waterfront shops, then back to Sedgefield. Dined at a lovely Italian restaurant, la Traviata. It was an excellent meal.
September 11th - we were up and away by 7pm, heading back along the Garden Route back through Plettenburg Bay and then on to new scenery. We drove 600 km's to East London, the drive was through some lovely scenery with ocean and mountain views alternating at various points. Fairly uneventful with roadworks the only major distraction, and there are plenty of those.
Morning tea at a cafe at Humansdorp, and our lunch stop was at Grahamstown; we got to our accommodation in East London about 3:00pm. A very comfortable B&B. The owner is disappointed to learn we are only overnighting and not staying around to enjoy the rugby with him on Saturday. He gives us some sage advice about our route the next day and shows us a safe route around the Transkei which will only be a little bit longer time wise, than the direct route we have been warned against, several times now.
Dinner was at a fine dining establishment down on the Eastern beachfront, Grazia Fine Food Restaurant. Four entrees, four mains and a bottle of wine for less than 1,000 Rand ($100) and the food was exquisite.
Day 35. Friday 12 September.
We expect to take about ten or so hours to get to Howick so we are on the road at 6:00 am. We head up the N2 towards Buttersworth and cut north a few kilometres before we get there towards Tsomo, Ngcobo and Elliott.
We are taken by the spread of the townships through the Transkei area and how each has their own fenced off "quarter acre section" surrounding their homes, usually a small hut or two. Most are barren at the moment, some are ploughed in readiness for planting some form of vegetable crop. Some have power, there is no apparent water source and very few vehicles among them. There are a myriad of people walking along the road edges, either heading to school, waiting for buses or whatever. The towns we pass through are not conducive to stopping for a shopping expedition and the eyes we see watching us appear almost contemptuous. Far from welcoming.
We travel on to Maclear where we spot a roadside cafe just before we leave town. It has off street parking so we decide to stop for a coffee and cake. The owner has recently taken over the business and is very welcoming. She advises she has just put a batch of scones in the oven so if we want to wait 15 minutes we can have them hot and fresh. So we do. We ask her to recommend a good place for lunch on our route and she gives us the name of a cafe in Underberg that she has heard good reports of. A few hours later after travelling up through Mount Fletcher, Matatiele, and Cedarville we are happy to attest that it is a good recommendation.
Shortly before getting to Howick we come across a fatal motor accident which holds us up for about 15 minutes. While it is unfortunate, it is not unexpected. In our travels to date we have witnessed or come upon the aftermath of four road crashes, two today but only this one has had a fatality. For the most part the standard of driving has been good but, just like NZ, there are some bloody idiots out there. It is not uncommon to see cars overtaking on blind corners or double lines or generally taking stupid risks. It appears that most road rules are used only as a guideline and if you keep a 50, 100 or 200 rand note (depending on who you are) with your ID card and licence most transgressions will be overlooked by the officer.
We finally arrive in Howick about 4:30 and our host meets us in town about 10 minutes later. We follow him back to the farmhouse they rent out in the country. A rambling farmhouse in about half a hectare in the middle of a 300 hectare farm with sheep, cattle and some cropping. The road from the edge of town is unsealed, but reasonable condition. The driveway is about half a kilometre of potholes joined together. The welcome from Charles, Lesley and their Great Dane, Bently, is warm and sincere. Charles and Lesley are friends from our OE 2008 cycling trip.
We bounce our way out to a local pizza parlour for dinner and home again for coffee and a good nights rest.
Day 36. Saturday 13 September. (Five weeks completed already.)
We awake to the call of laughing doves and a nice sunny warm day. Breakfast on the verandah overlooking the farm, the valley and the distant hills with sheep bleating in the meadow. Lesley informs us that the TV is tuned in to the rugby channel and that the All Blacks v Springboks game kicks off at 9:30.
You already know the outcome of the game. It is certainly different watching it in S. Africa with the locals cheering when the Springboks make the tackle or score! Fortunately it was a good game, the referee didn't spoil it and the result was right for us, probably made certain by John cheering for the Springboks to try and even up the numbers. A loss would have led to charges of treason however. I have also discovered that Bently thinks he is a lap dog. Have you ever had a Great Dane sit on your lap?
Therese and I bumped our way back into town to do some shopping with Lesley. We have generally had a much needed, very restful day.
Now sitting on the verandah, it has just gone dark. The dog has just caught a rat! We have seen monkeys in the nearby bush. Certainly still in Africa!
September 11th - we were up and away by 7pm, heading back along the Garden Route back through Plettenburg Bay and then on to new scenery. We drove 600 km's to East London, the drive was through some lovely scenery with ocean and mountain views alternating at various points. Fairly uneventful with roadworks the only major distraction, and there are plenty of those.
Morning tea at a cafe at Humansdorp, and our lunch stop was at Grahamstown; we got to our accommodation in East London about 3:00pm. A very comfortable B&B. The owner is disappointed to learn we are only overnighting and not staying around to enjoy the rugby with him on Saturday. He gives us some sage advice about our route the next day and shows us a safe route around the Transkei which will only be a little bit longer time wise, than the direct route we have been warned against, several times now.
Dinner was at a fine dining establishment down on the Eastern beachfront, Grazia Fine Food Restaurant. Four entrees, four mains and a bottle of wine for less than 1,000 Rand ($100) and the food was exquisite.
Day 35. Friday 12 September.
We expect to take about ten or so hours to get to Howick so we are on the road at 6:00 am. We head up the N2 towards Buttersworth and cut north a few kilometres before we get there towards Tsomo, Ngcobo and Elliott.
We are taken by the spread of the townships through the Transkei area and how each has their own fenced off "quarter acre section" surrounding their homes, usually a small hut or two. Most are barren at the moment, some are ploughed in readiness for planting some form of vegetable crop. Some have power, there is no apparent water source and very few vehicles among them. There are a myriad of people walking along the road edges, either heading to school, waiting for buses or whatever. The towns we pass through are not conducive to stopping for a shopping expedition and the eyes we see watching us appear almost contemptuous. Far from welcoming.
We travel on to Maclear where we spot a roadside cafe just before we leave town. It has off street parking so we decide to stop for a coffee and cake. The owner has recently taken over the business and is very welcoming. She advises she has just put a batch of scones in the oven so if we want to wait 15 minutes we can have them hot and fresh. So we do. We ask her to recommend a good place for lunch on our route and she gives us the name of a cafe in Underberg that she has heard good reports of. A few hours later after travelling up through Mount Fletcher, Matatiele, and Cedarville we are happy to attest that it is a good recommendation.
Shortly before getting to Howick we come across a fatal motor accident which holds us up for about 15 minutes. While it is unfortunate, it is not unexpected. In our travels to date we have witnessed or come upon the aftermath of four road crashes, two today but only this one has had a fatality. For the most part the standard of driving has been good but, just like NZ, there are some bloody idiots out there. It is not uncommon to see cars overtaking on blind corners or double lines or generally taking stupid risks. It appears that most road rules are used only as a guideline and if you keep a 50, 100 or 200 rand note (depending on who you are) with your ID card and licence most transgressions will be overlooked by the officer.
We finally arrive in Howick about 4:30 and our host meets us in town about 10 minutes later. We follow him back to the farmhouse they rent out in the country. A rambling farmhouse in about half a hectare in the middle of a 300 hectare farm with sheep, cattle and some cropping. The road from the edge of town is unsealed, but reasonable condition. The driveway is about half a kilometre of potholes joined together. The welcome from Charles, Lesley and their Great Dane, Bently, is warm and sincere. Charles and Lesley are friends from our OE 2008 cycling trip.
We bounce our way out to a local pizza parlour for dinner and home again for coffee and a good nights rest.
Day 36. Saturday 13 September. (Five weeks completed already.)
We awake to the call of laughing doves and a nice sunny warm day. Breakfast on the verandah overlooking the farm, the valley and the distant hills with sheep bleating in the meadow. Lesley informs us that the TV is tuned in to the rugby channel and that the All Blacks v Springboks game kicks off at 9:30.
You already know the outcome of the game. It is certainly different watching it in S. Africa with the locals cheering when the Springboks make the tackle or score! Fortunately it was a good game, the referee didn't spoil it and the result was right for us, probably made certain by John cheering for the Springboks to try and even up the numbers. A loss would have led to charges of treason however. I have also discovered that Bently thinks he is a lap dog. Have you ever had a Great Dane sit on your lap?
Therese and I bumped our way back into town to do some shopping with Lesley. We have generally had a much needed, very restful day.
Now sitting on the verandah, it has just gone dark. The dog has just caught a rat! We have seen monkeys in the nearby bush. Certainly still in Africa!
Wednesday, September 10, 2014
September 10th
The morning was damp in Sedgefield, but we travelled along the coast about 70ms to Plettenberg Bay and it was warmer and sunnier. Spent the day visiting different animal and bird attractions. They were all set up to rescue pets which people no longer wanted (lions which had become to big, for instance) or animals no longer wanted by zoos.
First we went to Birds of Eden, the largest single-dome free-flight aviary in the world. We saw many of the 200 different species, but certainly not all. Some very colourful birds from all over the world, visible from a wooden walkway which goes up into the canopy of the trees. Richard was popular with the birds _ he had a couple sitting on his shoulder for a long time! They had obviously been pets and one was very talkative.
Next stop was Monkeyland, where we were able to wander around in the sanctuary with the free-roaming apes, monkeys and lemurs. Many had also been kept as pets and came from all over the world to be re-homed at the sanctuary. There was a 128meter suspension bridge; while walking over it the monkeys were running alongside!
After a quick lunch we visited Jukani, where there are a variety of big cats which have been rescued - lions, white lions, tigers, cheetahs, cougars, caracal, African wild dogs, and hyena. We walked around the electrified enclosures and heard about how they have saved some of the animals.
Then it was time to get our dinner supplies from a well-stocked Pick and Pay supermarket and head "home". We lit the braai - Therese successfully got it burning - and had beautifully barbecue steaks for dinner.
This morning is chore time - put the washing into the big commercial washing machine and went for a game of mini-golf nearby while the cycle ran. Then started the dryer while we finished the golf. Liz was the winner over the 18 holes, beating John by one point, while Richard was third.
First we went to Birds of Eden, the largest single-dome free-flight aviary in the world. We saw many of the 200 different species, but certainly not all. Some very colourful birds from all over the world, visible from a wooden walkway which goes up into the canopy of the trees. Richard was popular with the birds _ he had a couple sitting on his shoulder for a long time! They had obviously been pets and one was very talkative.
Next stop was Monkeyland, where we were able to wander around in the sanctuary with the free-roaming apes, monkeys and lemurs. Many had also been kept as pets and came from all over the world to be re-homed at the sanctuary. There was a 128meter suspension bridge; while walking over it the monkeys were running alongside!
After a quick lunch we visited Jukani, where there are a variety of big cats which have been rescued - lions, white lions, tigers, cheetahs, cougars, caracal, African wild dogs, and hyena. We walked around the electrified enclosures and heard about how they have saved some of the animals.
Then it was time to get our dinner supplies from a well-stocked Pick and Pay supermarket and head "home". We lit the braai - Therese successfully got it burning - and had beautifully barbecue steaks for dinner.
This morning is chore time - put the washing into the big commercial washing machine and went for a game of mini-golf nearby while the cycle ran. Then started the dryer while we finished the golf. Liz was the winner over the 18 holes, beating John by one point, while Richard was third.
Tuesday, September 9, 2014
September 8th
We were up and breakfasted and leaving the unit just after 8am. Headed first back along the coast then inland to George, and then to Oudtshoorn. Went over 800m Outeniqua Pass. It was cloudy and almost raining when we left the coast, but cleared up to be a lovely day inland. After a 1.5 hour drive we arrived at the Cango Caves, and had a coffee while we waited for the 11am tour. No one was game enough to do the Adventure Tour which needed one to be fit and slim, to go through some very small holes in the caves! Our tour was through the first five chambers - around 550m into the caves. There were some amazing large caves with stalagmites and staligites forming large columns. Amy and Jeromé had been here two days prior, and Amy sang Panis Angelicus in the first big chamber, which until the 1950's had been used for concerts.
The underground spaces were amazing, and we enjoyed the experience.
From there we drove back to the Cango Ostrich Farm. Here we had lunch before doing a tour - seeing the incubators, and feeding and -Therese - riding an ostrich. She stayed on for at least 8 seconds. There was a weight limit of 80kg so John and Patrick were not eligible, and I did not want to risk a broken bone!
Next stop was the Cango Wilderness Ranch. We finally got to see a leopard! Or two, in fact. The park was home to many different species from Africa and around the world - lions, tigers, lemurs, crocodiles, and many more.
Last stop was an ostrich skin handbag manufacturer, where Liz purchased a new handbag. Will be an heirloom piece for Amy.
A supermarket stop for dinner supplies and home to Swartvlei.
The underground spaces were amazing, and we enjoyed the experience.
From there we drove back to the Cango Ostrich Farm. Here we had lunch before doing a tour - seeing the incubators, and feeding and -Therese - riding an ostrich. She stayed on for at least 8 seconds. There was a weight limit of 80kg so John and Patrick were not eligible, and I did not want to risk a broken bone!
Next stop was the Cango Wilderness Ranch. We finally got to see a leopard! Or two, in fact. The park was home to many different species from Africa and around the world - lions, tigers, lemurs, crocodiles, and many more.
Last stop was an ostrich skin handbag manufacturer, where Liz purchased a new handbag. Will be an heirloom piece for Amy.
A supermarket stop for dinner supplies and home to Swartvlei.
Monday, September 8, 2014
September 7th, 2014
We left Cape Town just before 7am, and had a smooth exit from the city on the N2, following the instructions of Ms Garmin.
Breakfast was at Hermanus, where we watched a whale frolicking in the sea in the distance while we ate. We then went to Cape Agulhas, and stood at the southernmost point of Africa.
From there we drove along the Garden Route to Sedgefield,cohere we are staying in a timeshare unit for 5 nights. Arrived around 4.30, unpacked, and went to the Spar (supermarket) to get our supplies for dinner and breakfast.
Had a rice risotto for dinner, then headed to bed for an early night after ä few long days of travel.
Woke to another beautiful African day. Sat on the balcony for breakfast, after which we wandered around to see the facilities at the resort. There is a swimming pool, mini-golf, and a few canoes. It is situated on a lagoon. Very pleasant spot.
We went to Sedgefield and drove the Tourist Route - it took us through the township, where the many residents were sitting outside enjoying the Sunday sun; children were playing on the roads but moved over quickly as we came by. Sedgefield is known as a mosaic town, and there were examples of mosaic statues and art works all along the drive. The road then went out to the coast - the Indian Ocean - and then we drove along the side of the lagoon back to the main road.
Lunched at a sand bar and restaurant - sitting in the sand - where we shared a pizza, then drove to Knysna to go down to the coast. Magnificent view of the Heads, with the Ocean crashing in through the narrow gap.
Back to the unit, and now sitting in the lovely late afternoon sun enjoying a G&T.
Breakfast was at Hermanus, where we watched a whale frolicking in the sea in the distance while we ate. We then went to Cape Agulhas, and stood at the southernmost point of Africa.
From there we drove along the Garden Route to Sedgefield,cohere we are staying in a timeshare unit for 5 nights. Arrived around 4.30, unpacked, and went to the Spar (supermarket) to get our supplies for dinner and breakfast.
Had a rice risotto for dinner, then headed to bed for an early night after ä few long days of travel.
Woke to another beautiful African day. Sat on the balcony for breakfast, after which we wandered around to see the facilities at the resort. There is a swimming pool, mini-golf, and a few canoes. It is situated on a lagoon. Very pleasant spot.
We went to Sedgefield and drove the Tourist Route - it took us through the township, where the many residents were sitting outside enjoying the Sunday sun; children were playing on the roads but moved over quickly as we came by. Sedgefield is known as a mosaic town, and there were examples of mosaic statues and art works all along the drive. The road then went out to the coast - the Indian Ocean - and then we drove along the side of the lagoon back to the main road.
Lunched at a sand bar and restaurant - sitting in the sand - where we shared a pizza, then drove to Knysna to go down to the coast. Magnificent view of the Heads, with the Ocean crashing in through the narrow gap.
Back to the unit, and now sitting in the lovely late afternoon sun enjoying a G&T.
Thursday, September 4, 2014
Wednesday, 4 th September
As we progressed through South Africa, the scenery became more rugged but the vegetation slowly increased. There were still very long distances between towns, and not many of them. We stopped in a city called Springbox, to go to the supermarket and try to use an ATM. The queues of people at the ATMs were very long - possibly related to 1st of the month being payday - and many had run out of money, so we were not successful. However we did get a few things from the supermarket.
So we travelled on, with the vista getting noticeably greener and more lush. Shrubs were getting higher and there were a few farms. There were lovely purple and yellow wild flowers covering large swathes of land. Stopped at a roadside st for lunch, too many biting flies and bees for it to be pleasant. Came to a town with two stores, one of the ATMs was working so got some rand out, and an ice cream. 20 rand - $2NZ for a magnum.
Around 4.30 we arrived at out last camp site. Situated overlooking the Oliphant River, it was up a hillside with a lovely view. It was about 33 degrees in the afternoon, so after doing camp chores we had a quick dip in the very cold pool. First day of spring, the water was cool, nut it certainly drops the core body temperature effectively. After a quick shower we assembled on the patio at the bar for a wine tasting. Sampled at local produce. This is also the area where Roibois tea is grown. Then we had a delicious dinner cooked by the restaurant. There was a dance floor so some folk spent time there. We went to bed about 9.30.
2 September. Up before the alarm at 5.50, usual routine. Truck left camp at 7am for our final legs to Capetown. The road was through some steep valleys, and passed kilometre after kilometre of fruit orchards and vineyards. A lot of places where we had to stop for road works. Some stunning views, going over the passes between valleys.
Wednesday, 4th September. Well we have spent the last couple of days in Cape Town. Our overland truck trip has now finished and all our clothes washed! Table Mountain was clear when we arrived so we took the cable car up to the viewing point. It's actually 3000 feet above sea level. The weather was calm so we had great views.
Yesterday we took the ferry over to Robben Island where Mandela and other political prisoners were held between1960-90.
We have been out to dinner with friends a couple of times and done a spot of shopping. Today and tomorrow we are going on day tours, today to the Cape of Good Hope and tomorrow to Stellenbosch on a wine tour. Amy and Jeromé leave on their tour tomorrow at 7am, or rather continue on their truck trip toward Johannesburg.
Tomorrow we pick up our rental car for the last two weeks of our trip.
So we travelled on, with the vista getting noticeably greener and more lush. Shrubs were getting higher and there were a few farms. There were lovely purple and yellow wild flowers covering large swathes of land. Stopped at a roadside st for lunch, too many biting flies and bees for it to be pleasant. Came to a town with two stores, one of the ATMs was working so got some rand out, and an ice cream. 20 rand - $2NZ for a magnum.
Around 4.30 we arrived at out last camp site. Situated overlooking the Oliphant River, it was up a hillside with a lovely view. It was about 33 degrees in the afternoon, so after doing camp chores we had a quick dip in the very cold pool. First day of spring, the water was cool, nut it certainly drops the core body temperature effectively. After a quick shower we assembled on the patio at the bar for a wine tasting. Sampled at local produce. This is also the area where Roibois tea is grown. Then we had a delicious dinner cooked by the restaurant. There was a dance floor so some folk spent time there. We went to bed about 9.30.
2 September. Up before the alarm at 5.50, usual routine. Truck left camp at 7am for our final legs to Capetown. The road was through some steep valleys, and passed kilometre after kilometre of fruit orchards and vineyards. A lot of places where we had to stop for road works. Some stunning views, going over the passes between valleys.
Wednesday, 4th September. Well we have spent the last couple of days in Cape Town. Our overland truck trip has now finished and all our clothes washed! Table Mountain was clear when we arrived so we took the cable car up to the viewing point. It's actually 3000 feet above sea level. The weather was calm so we had great views.
Yesterday we took the ferry over to Robben Island where Mandela and other political prisoners were held between1960-90.
We have been out to dinner with friends a couple of times and done a spot of shopping. Today and tomorrow we are going on day tours, today to the Cape of Good Hope and tomorrow to Stellenbosch on a wine tour. Amy and Jeromé leave on their tour tomorrow at 7am, or rather continue on their truck trip toward Johannesburg.
Tomorrow we pick up our rental car for the last two weeks of our trip.
Monday, September 1, 2014
Monday, 1st September. Back in South Africa
Two days in Swakapomund - time to have laundry done and shop and do a couple of activities.
It was a lot cooler than we had been having. On Wednesday we went on a Living Dunes tour. Along with Richard and Therese we were collected from our hotel and driven to the Desert Explorers base on the outskirts of town. After a brief lesson we were allocated a quad bike each and headed off with Ricky, our guide, into the dunes. We spent 2 and 1/2 hours quad biking through the dunes, looking for life in the hot sands. Ricky found a white lady spider, a lizard and a gecko. They all burrow down into the sand to stay cool during the heat of the day.
It was a great morning, out amongst the massive sand dunes.
In the afternoon we wandered around the city of 45,000. It is famous for its German heritage, and many of the buildings were built around 1905 by the German settlers who came to the area. There are many signs in German, and shop assistants are of German heritage and speak German.
For dinner we went to Pier 1905. This restaurant is at the end of the pier which was originally built out into the Atlantic Ocean in 1905. Parts of it have a glass floor so you can see the water underneath you. We shared a main course seafood platter between us and Jeromé and Amy. It was very tasty, and plenty of food for four.
On Thursday John and I and Richard and Therese were collected at 8am and taken to the airport. We then had a 2 and 1/4 flight slightly inland South and back up the coast. It was very interesting to see the vastness of the sand dunes which then changed into red sand. Along the coast we saw pelicans, seals, and Walvis Bay which is a port.
Another relaxing afternoon; lunch at Bojo's which serves great coffee then ä wander around some more shops.
Friday we were back on the truck, after a delayed start. Drove South, stopping at the Tropic of Capricorn sign for photos, before our lunch stop at Solitaire where they serve delicious apple shortcake. Then drove on to Sossusvlei where we camped for the night. Once our tents were up we walked about 5 kilometres to a canyon to watch the sun set. The canyon was amazing, and the purple-hued light looked really spectacular. Dinner was prepared - in the truck because of the unceasing wind which was blowing sand everywhere. We were able to eat dinner in the bar, which was great. Then it was time to crawl into tents prepared for an early start.
So Saturday the alarm went at 4.15am. No-one slept very well because of the relentless wind which blew fine red sand everywhere, including into our tents. We got in the truck and Josh drove us to Dune 45, the biggest sand dune. We started climbing it to see the sunrise, but gave up after a short climb as it was so windy and truly unpleasant. The dune was probably about 250m high. After breakfast there we drove to the Dead Vlei, an area where there are dead trees over 1,000 years old. We were driven through sand in a 4x4 to walk into the area. It was blowing a gale and very unpleasant, we were completely covered in sand. However the area looked very surreal, and it was good to get things into perspective. The flat pan was surrounded by towering sand dunes, with sand being blown over and into everything. We were driven the 5kms into the area on 4x4 wheel drives, as the road surface was all just loose sand.
It was a relief to get back on our truck, Perky, and out of the wind. The drive to campsite was about three hours. We stopped in a little town called Solitaire for lunch. The campsite was off the road down a dirt track. It took a while to get hot water for showers as the boiler was only started when we arrived. However it was finally hot and we enjoyed a lovely shower, with the chance to wash all the sand out of our hair. Dinner was a delicious pasta, and we were able to sit in the bar at the camp to eat it. Very cosy, with a fire going. Konkilapa Camp. We upgraded to a cabin for $160 Namibian dollars ($16NZ) and enjoyed having single beds to sleep in and room to sort out our bags. It was very cold overnight, down to low single digit temperatures, but we were warm in our cabin.
Sunday dawned clear and crisp. Alarm went at 6.15. It was cold out but started to warm up as soon as the sun started shining. We left at 7.30 after Josh had changed a tyre on the truck. Short stop for petrol at a small town, then drove to Fish River Canyon, where we arrived at 11.30am. This is the second largest canyon in the world, formed millions of years ago, and is a canyon in a canyon. We did a short walk along part of the rim of the canyon, then had lunch, before heading to our campsite for the night.
The landscape is still dry, dusty, and does not support much in the way of plant or animal life. Some ostrich, a few zebra, some goats and a monitor lizard for animals; small tussocks for plants.
Camp had green grass! A lovely spot on the Orange River, which is the border between Namibia and South Africa. It was lovely to set up camp early, clean the sand out of our tents, and swim/shower. Liz was on truck cleaning duty, so once the chores were done we sat at the outside bar beside the pool until dinner was ready. Bedtime was about 9pm.
Monday 1st September - Up before the alarm at 5.30, packed up tent and went to breakfast. All ready to leave before the 7.30 departure time. It was a short 10minute drive to the border, where we were processed out of Namibia, drove across the border and were processed into South Africa. All done within an hour of leaving camp, but we also had to out our clocks forward again one hour.
Just at supermarket in Springbok, where we have internet.
It was a lot cooler than we had been having. On Wednesday we went on a Living Dunes tour. Along with Richard and Therese we were collected from our hotel and driven to the Desert Explorers base on the outskirts of town. After a brief lesson we were allocated a quad bike each and headed off with Ricky, our guide, into the dunes. We spent 2 and 1/2 hours quad biking through the dunes, looking for life in the hot sands. Ricky found a white lady spider, a lizard and a gecko. They all burrow down into the sand to stay cool during the heat of the day.
It was a great morning, out amongst the massive sand dunes.
In the afternoon we wandered around the city of 45,000. It is famous for its German heritage, and many of the buildings were built around 1905 by the German settlers who came to the area. There are many signs in German, and shop assistants are of German heritage and speak German.
For dinner we went to Pier 1905. This restaurant is at the end of the pier which was originally built out into the Atlantic Ocean in 1905. Parts of it have a glass floor so you can see the water underneath you. We shared a main course seafood platter between us and Jeromé and Amy. It was very tasty, and plenty of food for four.
On Thursday John and I and Richard and Therese were collected at 8am and taken to the airport. We then had a 2 and 1/4 flight slightly inland South and back up the coast. It was very interesting to see the vastness of the sand dunes which then changed into red sand. Along the coast we saw pelicans, seals, and Walvis Bay which is a port.
Another relaxing afternoon; lunch at Bojo's which serves great coffee then ä wander around some more shops.
Friday we were back on the truck, after a delayed start. Drove South, stopping at the Tropic of Capricorn sign for photos, before our lunch stop at Solitaire where they serve delicious apple shortcake. Then drove on to Sossusvlei where we camped for the night. Once our tents were up we walked about 5 kilometres to a canyon to watch the sun set. The canyon was amazing, and the purple-hued light looked really spectacular. Dinner was prepared - in the truck because of the unceasing wind which was blowing sand everywhere. We were able to eat dinner in the bar, which was great. Then it was time to crawl into tents prepared for an early start.
So Saturday the alarm went at 4.15am. No-one slept very well because of the relentless wind which blew fine red sand everywhere, including into our tents. We got in the truck and Josh drove us to Dune 45, the biggest sand dune. We started climbing it to see the sunrise, but gave up after a short climb as it was so windy and truly unpleasant. The dune was probably about 250m high. After breakfast there we drove to the Dead Vlei, an area where there are dead trees over 1,000 years old. We were driven through sand in a 4x4 to walk into the area. It was blowing a gale and very unpleasant, we were completely covered in sand. However the area looked very surreal, and it was good to get things into perspective. The flat pan was surrounded by towering sand dunes, with sand being blown over and into everything. We were driven the 5kms into the area on 4x4 wheel drives, as the road surface was all just loose sand.
It was a relief to get back on our truck, Perky, and out of the wind. The drive to campsite was about three hours. We stopped in a little town called Solitaire for lunch. The campsite was off the road down a dirt track. It took a while to get hot water for showers as the boiler was only started when we arrived. However it was finally hot and we enjoyed a lovely shower, with the chance to wash all the sand out of our hair. Dinner was a delicious pasta, and we were able to sit in the bar at the camp to eat it. Very cosy, with a fire going. Konkilapa Camp. We upgraded to a cabin for $160 Namibian dollars ($16NZ) and enjoyed having single beds to sleep in and room to sort out our bags. It was very cold overnight, down to low single digit temperatures, but we were warm in our cabin.
Sunday dawned clear and crisp. Alarm went at 6.15. It was cold out but started to warm up as soon as the sun started shining. We left at 7.30 after Josh had changed a tyre on the truck. Short stop for petrol at a small town, then drove to Fish River Canyon, where we arrived at 11.30am. This is the second largest canyon in the world, formed millions of years ago, and is a canyon in a canyon. We did a short walk along part of the rim of the canyon, then had lunch, before heading to our campsite for the night.
The landscape is still dry, dusty, and does not support much in the way of plant or animal life. Some ostrich, a few zebra, some goats and a monitor lizard for animals; small tussocks for plants.
Camp had green grass! A lovely spot on the Orange River, which is the border between Namibia and South Africa. It was lovely to set up camp early, clean the sand out of our tents, and swim/shower. Liz was on truck cleaning duty, so once the chores were done we sat at the outside bar beside the pool until dinner was ready. Bedtime was about 9pm.
Monday 1st September - Up before the alarm at 5.30, packed up tent and went to breakfast. All ready to leave before the 7.30 departure time. It was a short 10minute drive to the border, where we were processed out of Namibia, drove across the border and were processed into South Africa. All done within an hour of leaving camp, but we also had to out our clocks forward again one hour.
Just at supermarket in Springbok, where we have internet.
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