September 11th - we were up and away by 7pm, heading back along the Garden Route back through Plettenburg Bay and then on to new scenery. We drove 600 km's to East London, the drive was through some lovely scenery with ocean and mountain views alternating at various points. Fairly uneventful with roadworks the only major distraction, and there are plenty of those.
Morning tea at a cafe at Humansdorp, and our lunch stop was at Grahamstown; we got to our accommodation in East London about 3:00pm. A very comfortable B&B. The owner is disappointed to learn we are only overnighting and not staying around to enjoy the rugby with him on Saturday. He gives us some sage advice about our route the next day and shows us a safe route around the Transkei which will only be a little bit longer time wise, than the direct route we have been warned against, several times now.
Dinner was at a fine dining establishment down on the Eastern beachfront, Grazia Fine Food Restaurant. Four entrees, four mains and a bottle of wine for less than 1,000 Rand ($100) and the food was exquisite.
Day 35. Friday 12 September.
We expect to take about ten or so hours to get to Howick so we are on the road at 6:00 am. We head up the N2 towards Buttersworth and cut north a few kilometres before we get there towards Tsomo, Ngcobo and Elliott.
We are taken by the spread of the townships through the Transkei area and how each has their own fenced off "quarter acre section" surrounding their homes, usually a small hut or two. Most are barren at the moment, some are ploughed in readiness for planting some form of vegetable crop. Some have power, there is no apparent water source and very few vehicles among them. There are a myriad of people walking along the road edges, either heading to school, waiting for buses or whatever. The towns we pass through are not conducive to stopping for a shopping expedition and the eyes we see watching us appear almost contemptuous. Far from welcoming.
We travel on to Maclear where we spot a roadside cafe just before we leave town. It has off street parking so we decide to stop for a coffee and cake. The owner has recently taken over the business and is very welcoming. She advises she has just put a batch of scones in the oven so if we want to wait 15 minutes we can have them hot and fresh. So we do. We ask her to recommend a good place for lunch on our route and she gives us the name of a cafe in Underberg that she has heard good reports of. A few hours later after travelling up through Mount Fletcher, Matatiele, and Cedarville we are happy to attest that it is a good recommendation.
Shortly before getting to Howick we come across a fatal motor accident which holds us up for about 15 minutes. While it is unfortunate, it is not unexpected. In our travels to date we have witnessed or come upon the aftermath of four road crashes, two today but only this one has had a fatality. For the most part the standard of driving has been good but, just like NZ, there are some bloody idiots out there. It is not uncommon to see cars overtaking on blind corners or double lines or generally taking stupid risks. It appears that most road rules are used only as a guideline and if you keep a 50, 100 or 200 rand note (depending on who you are) with your ID card and licence most transgressions will be overlooked by the officer.
We finally arrive in Howick about 4:30 and our host meets us in town about 10 minutes later. We follow him back to the farmhouse they rent out in the country. A rambling farmhouse in about half a hectare in the middle of a 300 hectare farm with sheep, cattle and some cropping. The road from the edge of town is unsealed, but reasonable condition. The driveway is about half a kilometre of potholes joined together. The welcome from Charles, Lesley and their Great Dane, Bently, is warm and sincere. Charles and Lesley are friends from our OE 2008 cycling trip.
We bounce our way out to a local pizza parlour for dinner and home again for coffee and a good nights rest.
Day 36. Saturday 13 September. (Five weeks completed already.)
We awake to the call of laughing doves and a nice sunny warm day. Breakfast on the verandah overlooking the farm, the valley and the distant hills with sheep bleating in the meadow. Lesley informs us that the TV is tuned in to the rugby channel and that the All Blacks v Springboks game kicks off at 9:30.
You already know the outcome of the game. It is certainly different watching it in S. Africa with the locals cheering when the Springboks make the tackle or score! Fortunately it was a good game, the referee didn't spoil it and the result was right for us, probably made certain by John cheering for the Springboks to try and even up the numbers. A loss would have led to charges of treason however. I have also discovered that Bently thinks he is a lap dog. Have you ever had a Great Dane sit on your lap?
Therese and I bumped our way back into town to do some shopping with Lesley. We have generally had a much needed, very restful day.
Now sitting on the verandah, it has just gone dark. The dog has just caught a rat! We have seen monkeys in the nearby bush. Certainly still in Africa!
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